RPhil's Excursion


You will miss out on Very little with a vehicle as big as an excursion in Colorado, at least an excursion with 37's and a rear locker. I can probably count the trails on two hands you COULDNT drive an excursion on. And you probably wouldn't want to drive them in a Taco or FZJ either.

I wheel a CCLB on plenty of trails that used to pass logging trucks but now only really pass ATV's. Pin stripes don't bother me much though. Think of an excursion with proper tires as a power wagon with a topper but no lockers. Then picture where you can drive it. Same wheel base, same width, comparable under body protection available.

Too much fear on this forum of big vehicles. Make America great again! Vote Hillary and drive 8000lbs of steel around town!


Here are a few pictures of the completed platform:

Quick drop down table made from paracord and a hinge:

Next up is tearing into the liftgate to modify the opening mechanism so I can activate it from the inside. Also going to replace some of the screws on the platform with nuts and bolts.

A few pics from this past weekend:



Got the cruise control working. There is a self-diagnostic that one can perform before the vehicle starts to see where your issue is, and mine told me it was working fine... my real-world experience was conflicting.

I noticed that on the highway I could turn the cruise control on, then set the speed and the light would only blink for a moment, before immediately turning off. Spent some hours googling and seeing what could be causing the issue.

There are two sensors that can turn the cruise off in these trucks- one on the actual brake pedal (that also controls rear brake lights) and a backup that screws directly onto the master cylinder. At some point, Excursions and Super Duties had a recall for the master cylinder switch because apparently they were failing, brake fluid was dripping into them, and there were instances of trucks literally going up in flames. I popped my hood and saw that the recall had been performed on my truck. I figured that meant the sensor was good. I also did some wiggling of the brake pedal on my way home from work, and found the cruise to be working. Bought a new brake pedal switch, installed it, and it did not fix my issue. Searched for a long time to see if there was a way to adjust sensitivity of this switch and could not get a straight answer (pretty sure you can't...). Decided to replace the master cylinder switch and now all is good.

I wanted to update this thread with that information in case someone google'd keywords since there is some conflicting information out there on various forums.

Picture of old, removed sensor:

New sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW-6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO) Installed:

Also, the part numbers on the actual sensors themselves did not match, and I unfortunately didn't take one of the new switch before I installed it.


Got around to some rust repair that I have been putting off since I bought the truck. The rockers towards the front end were pretty shot where the running boards attached. Front passenger side was rusted through. Plan was to just address the problem areas, but I got carried away. Covered both sides in POR-15 as well as some other spots that caught my eye while I was under there.


Front DS:


Front PS:



Front DS:


Front PS:


Front of gas tank:

Also replaced the screws that were holding up the flip-down table with some stainless bolts and nylocks:

And I braided some paracord drawer pulls:

Finally here are a few pictures from a quick trip to Assateague Island:

Cheers :smiley_drive:


Due for another oil change so I figured I would finally flush the coolant since I had a bit of extra time. Threw a new coolant reservoir on it as well. Old reservoir had quite a bit of sediment on the inside, but the coolant that came out looked surprisingly clean.

Removed this stupid counterweight that is likely for vibration dampening... it also happened to hang below everything else in the middle of the frame:

Truck was misfiring a bit. Hooked a code reader up and I'm getting misfires on cylinders 1 and 3. Bought 10 new plugs and boots and 3 new COP's. I figure if 2 are bad, this will give me one spare. I would replace all 10, but from what I've read, they shouldn't really be wear items, not to mention they aren't cheap.


On the 5.4L motors, the key to tightening the spark plugs is to slightly "over-tighten" them. Not sure if it's the same for the V10s. The factory torque spec isn't good enough.

Good luck getting that one bolt out.


Your ex is looking great that bed set-up is awesome...I want to eventually make one for my excursion.
Thanks! I would change a few things for the platform if I were to build another- but that's how it goes.

Spent a couple hours wrestling that bolt I snapped off a few days ago. It beat me and I gave up. Drove to a local shop to have them fix me up, not realizing they were closed today. The good news is that the truck runs noticeably better at idle and under load. It is so much smoother.

Going to enlist the help of some co-workers for that stuck bolt this week, hopefully.


Step 1: Take fuel rail, intake, and various hoses off. Optional: misplace 2 injector o-rings and break one injector electrical connector clip.

Step 2/3: Drill out old bolt and tap with a 1/4-20.

Step 4: Slightly crack COP because you decided to use a bolt that was larger than the insert diameter and you failed at drilling it out. Optional: drink beer.

Step 5: Find right length bolt and washer.

Step 6 (not pictured): Install COP, button everything else up and drink more beer.


So... I accidentally deleted a pretty lengthy post in my thread outlining my recent spark plug change when I was trying to copy some links on my tablet. Any way for me to reach a moderator to get it back?


Nothing too notable going on with the build. Updated the front end to the 05-07 style. This is well documented on other forums so I won't get into much detail. Here is a before and after:

Also added a 20" lightbar while I was at it. Grabbed a rocker switch from otrattw along with a mounting panel from there. Right now the lightbar is relayed directly to the main battery. I'm grabbing power with add-a-fuses at the fuse panel. Cigarette lighter fuse to send power to the relay so I can flip the switch when the truck is off if I want/need to. These switches also are backlit, so I got green to match the Excursion's green dash lights. This is tied to the headlight circuit.

Although not quite done yet, here are some shots of where the switch will be mounted. The F-650 has a lower dash panel that bolts on to the Excursion. Also, for anyone who needs to color match this lower dash, keep in mind it isn't actually "Medium Parchment" color like your VIN and a lot of places say. That color is for the lighter interior panels. This dash needs to match the ash tray area, which is darker. This thread, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1051562-dash-paint-color.html, is claiming it is "Medium Dark Parchment", so I will either buy a can of that or just bring in my ash tray to a paint store to have it color matched.

Used a rotozip to trim the opening to fit the mounting panel I already bought:

Wires daisy chained so I can throw another switch in quickly:

I actually had a buddy RP me a mounting panel for the switches before I had gotten the dash so I guessed on the dimensions. Was just going to trim it and bolt it to the dash, but decided I liked the look of the one I got from otrattw more:

If I have to do it again, I may just have a friend CNC me up a plate now that I know the dimensions, but I'm not too worried about it right now.

I've got a quick weekend camping trip coming up, so I'll have some feedback on the light output soon enough.


New member
Dude, love your X!

I have a 2005 V10 that I want to start modding a little for some overland fishing trips. We pull a 2005 30ft Airstream which we live in fulltime so I can't add too much weight but I'm crunching numbers. Are you going to add a roof rack at any point?

Keep up the posts! Love seeing other people's X rigs!

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