Scout Olympic vs Kenai

[svinyard]

I haven't but I've got the details on it and general installation.

So here's the thing, that charging module bolts right into the Yeti and supports like 65amps of charge. That's a lot of power coming in that it supports! Now Scout did wire in Yeti's 8guage power cable into the guts of the camper BUT that cable got recalled. You'd have to submit the recall to Yeti and then they'd send you a new cable kit and should send you a gift card of 150$ or something for installation. That cable they wired in, hooks into the 7-pin connector and that power line. That all sounds good BUT your trucks power line that runs all the way from the engine to the rear end 7pin...its light guage wire. So you'll only get like 100-150w of charging (roughly 10amps) due to the length an limited gauge and connections etc. That sucks. Also that 8awg wire that they sell is NOT thick enough to handle 65amps so I'd not use that in anyway.

So the proper setup is this: I haven't done this yet, but I've been in touch with the Electrical Engineers and techs at Scout and GoalZero. I'm not a pro and it's never bad to have a pro do some electrical work but here's the general idea.

• BUY: Get 4 or 6 gauge wire to run from the truck battery all the way to the GoalZero. You can get a custom length from these guys maybe (https://www.batterycablesusa.com/) with ring connectors for the truck battery and standard EC8 connector (high amp) on the battery end. Likely need around 20ft-25ft of cable. Also buy that charge controller (whatever they call it).
  • This will support the 65amps (roughly 750w) without overheating, my EE buddies confirmed that. Its thick cable tho and likely not cheap.
  • Put an 80amp fuse on the cable run near the battery. You can get one free if you warranty that stock EC8 cable in the Scout via GoalZero. The kit they send you includes the 80amp fuse.
  • You'll run it connected to the battery directly through the engine to the side wheel well, along the cable runs on the side of the truck, through a whole in the bed and then into the camper port.
  • You should get 550-650w (you'll lose some power over that 20ft+ run) which will DEFINITELY boost your GoalZero in an hours drive or two. Probably add 40% to the battery in an 1.5hrs-2hr drive (I think). That's substantial and could keep you going without solar on a longer trip using the battery a lot.
  • You are connected to your battery directly but it'll only charge the GoalZero when the alternator is driving watts into it. The charge controller senses how much wattage is present and charges or not automatically. I think the charge controller has to be set in "Vehicle" mode and then charges when the sensed-voltage is above 14v (aka the alternators running) or something to that effect. This is similar to how a victron charger works.

This is very similar to what all the LandCruiser guys do to get the fridge to run off of a deep-cycle battery. Common stuff, just with bigger gauge wire to support the greater charge load. Note that we were able to plug in the cigarette lighter charger, run it through the cab, through the back window, into the bed and into the camper to charge it while trucks running. You get around 120w. Its not a ton of power but can get you an extra 5%-10% here and there depending on the length of the drive.

has anyone installed the YETI LINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION KIT? or know if there is there a factory exterior outlet to make the connection?

Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit

short Contains everything you need to charge the Yeti 1000X or larger from your vehicle’s alternator. Simply switch the Yeti Link to “Car Mode” to start collecting power while on the move. NOTE: Requires installation by a qualified professional. features YETI LINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION Off-road...

www.goalzero.com

also, anyone add a YETI TANK EXPANSION BATTERY yet?

Yeti Accessories

Roll carts, replacement batteries, expansion systems, solar charging optimization modules, and more. Everything you need to make your Goal Zero Yeti charging experience even better.

www.goalzero.com

 

[bharl]

massively helpful - thanks

 

[YF_Ryan]

has anyone installed the YETI LINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION KIT? or know if there is there a factory exterior outlet to make the connection?

Yeti Link Vehicle Integration Kit

short Contains everything you need to charge the Yeti 1000X or larger from your vehicle’s alternator. Simply switch the Yeti Link to “Car Mode” to start collecting power while on the move. NOTE: Requires installation by a qualified professional. features YETI LINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION Off-road...

www.goalzero.com

also, anyone add a YETI TANK EXPANSION BATTERY yet?

Yeti Accessories

Roll carts, replacement batteries, expansion systems, solar charging optimization modules, and more. Everything you need to make your Goal Zero Yeti charging experience even better.

www.goalzero.com

I believe their is a cable that connects to the integration module pre-installed in the Scout Campers, HOWEVER, that cable is connected to the vehicle's alternator/battery via the 7pin, which obviously cannot support the amperage that the Yeti Link can pull.

Running your own heavy gauge wiring would probably serve you better if you need to charge off your vehicle. You can also purchase a DC to DC charger, such as the Victron and use it instead of the Yeti Link, it is much less expensive as well.

 

[YF_Ryan]

I haven't but I've got the details on it and general installation.

So here's the thing, that charging module bolts right into the Yeti and supports like 65amps of charge. That's a lot of power coming in that it supports! Now Scout did wire in Yeti's 8guage power cable into the guts of the camper BUT that cable got recalled. You'd have to submit the recall to Yeti and then they'd send you a new cable kit and should send you a gift card of 150$ or something for installation. That cable they wired in, hooks into the 7-pin connector and that power line. That all sounds good BUT your trucks power line that runs all the way from the engine to the rear end 7pin...its light guage wire. So you'll only get like 100-150w of charging (roughly 10amps) due to the length an limited gauge and connections etc. That sucks. Also that 8awg wire that they sell is NOT thick enough to handle 65amps so I'd not use that in anyway.

So the proper setup is this: I haven't done this yet, but I've been in touch with the Electrical Engineers and techs at Scout and GoalZero. I'm not a pro and it's never bad to have a pro do some electrical work but here's the general idea.

• BUY: Get 4 or 6 gauge wire to run from the truck battery all the way to the GoalZero. You can get a custom length from these guys maybe (https://www.batterycablesusa.com/) with ring connectors for the truck battery and standard EC8 connector (high amp) on the battery end. Likely need around 20ft-25ft of cable. Also buy that charge controller (whatever they call it).
  • This will support the 65amps (roughly 750w) without overheating, my EE buddies confirmed that. Its thick cable tho and likely not cheap.
  • Put an 80amp fuse on the cable run near the battery. You can get one free if you warranty that stock EC8 cable in the Scout via GoalZero. The kit they send you includes the 80amp fuse.
  • You'll run it connected to the battery directly through the engine to the side wheel well, along the cable runs on the side of the truck, through a whole in the bed and then into the camper port.
  • You should get 550-650w (you'll lose some power over that 20ft+ run) which will DEFINITELY boost your GoalZero in an hours drive or two. Probably add 40% to the battery in an 1.5hrs-2hr drive (I think). That's substantial and could keep you going without solar on a longer trip using the battery a lot.
  • You are connected to your battery directly but it'll only charge the GoalZero when the alternator is driving watts into it. The charge controller senses how much wattage is present and charges or not automatically. I think the charge controller has to be set in "Vehicle" mode and then charges when the sensed-voltage is above 14v (aka the alternators running) or something to that effect. This is similar to how a victron charger works.

This is very similar to what all the LandCruiser guys do to get the fridge to run off of a deep-cycle battery. Common stuff, just with bigger gauge wire to support the greater charge load. Note that we were able to plug in the cigarette lighter charger, run it through the cab, through the back window, into the bed and into the camper to charge it while trucks running. You get around 120w. Its not a ton of power but can get you an extra 5%-10% here and there depending on the length of the drive.

Sorry, didn't see your post. That's great info.

A couple questions though.

-You say you'd get 100-120 watts via the 7 pin. Since the Yeti Module can handle up to 750, what is keeping it from TRYING to get 750 and simply blowing the fuse on the 7 pin?

-Second, "the 65amps (roughly 750W)", From what i read, the max input to a 1500x via the HP charging port is 600 watts, which is how you'd be connecting the Victron or other DC to DC charger (properly set to charge lithium at some voltage between 14 and 50. Right?


Personally, I'm really torn on spending the time/money to connect the GZ to my truck for heavy amp charging. And I already have HEAVY gauge wiring installed to the bed of my truck from my previous build. I had two AGMs as house batteries able to pull as much juice as my alternator could put out. My Tacoma has a simple OEM inverter installed in the bed, so I could simply plug in a 230watt GZ charger with zero other investment. I've also contemplated finding that 7 pin input to the camper and simply wiring up a 12v port so I can charge via the 5/10 amp 12v charger. Limited to 120 watts, but would be a relatively cheap and easy way to get vehicle charging.

 

[svinyard]

The low wire gauge and 25ft, with connections too....all act as a bottleneck and limit the amount of power over distance...you lose voltage over distance. The smaller diameter wire and futher distance, the more voltage is lost. Its like drinking the ocean through a tapered straw. When that power finally hits the charge controller, there isn't enough voltage for it to boost it appropriately and charge at a high rate. So, depending on the charge controller, it just gives up and throttles down.

The charge controller on the GoalZero (module thing) maxes at 65amps in its draw iirc or maybe its 62.5 but something like that. So around 780w max.

You might be right on the 50am max charging port tho their charging module states it can charge the 1500x at 750w. Perhaps I don't fully understand that charging port and the details around it. Regardless, I just want that 600w and that's about what you'd get max with 4-6awg wiring over 20+ft and that controller.

Can you just use that heavy gauge wiring already in your bed?

Sorry, didn't see your post. That's great info.

A couple questions though.

-You say you'd get 100-120 watts via the 7 pin. Since the Yeti Module can handle up to 750, what is keeping it from TRYING to get 750 and simply blowing the fuse on the 7 pin?

-Second, "the 65amps (roughly 750W)", From what i read, the max input to a 1500x via the HP charging port is 600 watts, which is how you'd be connecting the Victron or other DC to DC charger (properly set to charge lithium at some voltage between 14 and 50. Right?


Personally, I'm really torn on spending the time/money to connect the GZ to my truck for heavy amp charging. And I already have HEAVY gauge wiring installed to the bed of my truck from my previous build. I had two AGMs as house batteries able to pull as much juice as my alternator could put out. My Tacoma has a simple OEM inverter installed in the bed, so I could simply plug in a 230watt GZ charger with zero other investment. I've also contemplated finding that 7 pin input to the camper and simply wiring up a 12v port so I can charge via the 5/10 amp 12v charger. Limited to 120 watts, but would be a relatively cheap and easy way to get vehicle charging.

 

[YF_Ryan]

The low wire gauge and 25ft, with connections too....all act as a bottleneck and limit the amount of power over distance...you lose voltage over distance. The smaller diameter wire and futher distance, the more voltage is lost. Its like drinking the ocean through a tapered straw. When that power finally hits the charge controller, there isn't enough voltage for it to boost it appropriately and charge at a high rate. So, depending on the charge controller, it just gives up and throttles down.

The charge controller on the GoalZero (module thing) maxes at 65amps in its draw iirc or maybe its 62.5 but something like that. So around 780w max.

You might be right on the 50am max charging port tho their charging module states it can charge the 1500x at 750w. Perhaps I don't fully understand that charging port and the details around it. Regardless, I just want that 600w and that's about what you'd get max with 4-6awg wiring over 20+ft and that controller.

Can you just use that heavy gauge wiring already in your bed?

You are correct on the 750 watts max via the Yeti Link, but it has it's own port under the lid of the Yeti. The HP Port on the front of the Yeti can only handle 600 watts. If using a DC to DC charger other than the Yeti Link, you can only use the HP Port, which is the limiting factor to the 600.

I ran commercial 25 foot 2 gauge jumper cables that I have attached heavy duty ring terminals too. Currently they end over my passenger side fender well not hooked to anything. I could definitely hook it up if I bought a charger and made a few more cables, but currently I'm being cheap and don't want to buy one. My camper is actually arriving soon, so I'll be using as it comes for awhile to see how it does. I seldom drive much when I'm camping anyhow. I drive to a campsite, and usually just stay there til I drive home. I wouldn't run my truck just to charge the GZ. My 2 house batteries (which together had half the capacity of the 1500) kept my 75 liter fridge running and my phones/tablets charged for a 3 day weekend no problem, without even putting out my solar panel. And with my 100 watt solar panel I coulda gone indefinitely in spring/summer/fall. I'm looking forward to seeing how it handles charging off the 175 watt. And if I do happen to park in the shade, I can still hook up my old 100 watt panel.

 

[matimeo]

I also want to rig something up to power the goal zero from the alternator/battery. I won't always have the camper on the truck though, and don't like the idea of a stray wire sitting in the bed when disconnected from the goal zero. Does anyone put any kind of outlet/port in the side of the truck bed that you can connect/disconnect from when you've got the camper on there. I mean something that can support a decent current for charging while driving (as opposed to going through the 7 pin connector that's already there).

By the way, great info from everyone on this thread. I know it kind of died down, but I'd love to hear what new experiences everyone is having with their campers.

 

[kamicrazy99]

Anderson plug should work.

 

[simple]

Can you adjust the current draw on the Yeti car charge module? 60A is quite a bit and I wouldn't want my alternator to see that load unless I was going highway speed at high RPM to cool it. I'd consider putting a relay in the charge circuit that ran from a toggle on my dash so I could turn it on and off.

 

[GeorgeHayduke]

I also want to rig something up to power the goal zero from the alternator/battery. I won't always have the camper on the truck though, and don't like the idea of a stray wire sitting in the bed when disconnected from the goal zero. Does anyone put any kind of outlet/port in the side of the truck bed that you can connect/disconnect from when you've got the camper on there. I mean something that can support a decent current for charging while driving (as opposed to going through the 7 pin connector that's already there).

I know Rams and new Tundras come with 120V power outlets in the bed. I'm sure Ford and the others have similar offerings. You could run a simple extension cord from that through the driverside port in the Scout and connect to the Goal Zero for charging while on the road and just remove the extension cord when you're not using it.

 

[xterratime]

Thanks to all have contributed to this thread!! Great read on the Scout campers.

I saw them a couple years ago but don't think I noticed the rooftop tent/portal or maybe I had only seen the smaller ones. But the more and more I look at them they seem like a larger more practical option for our family of four then the Grandby FWC I've been looking at.

I also like how simple everything is and interchangeable. My goal is to get something the 4 of us can enjoy the next 7-10 years and then still work for the wife and I as empty nesters. With the longevity of composites and the ease of replacement of internal components (fridge, stove, etc.) this seems like a real possibility.

Not having to pop the top and the full height door are appealing for day use weekend warrior stuff too (bathrooms for softball games, ski lot lunch/gear up, et all)

Anyone have an idea on current lead times?

How are folks doing in the heat/humidity? We live in Maryland and travel south a lot and no AC is a big sticking point with my other half.

On that note the 2 new front bunk windows look nice for airflow up there. Little article in TCM on 2023 improvements if anyone hasn't seen:

2023 Scout Camper Updates Announced - Truck Camper Magazine

Adventurer Manufacturing reveals renderings of thirteen updates and six new options for the 2023 Scout truck camper line.

www.truckcampermagazine.com

 

[matimeo]

It appears that current lead times are about 12 months from what I gathered on the Facebook group.
Regarding the AC, I'm not sure if a Scout is the best option for someone that wants AC in a camper, but on the Facebook group some options have been discussed. I live in the PNW, so not an issue here.

 

[xterratime]

It appears that current lead times are about 12 months from what I gathered on the Facebook group.

Regarding the AC, I'm not sure if a Scout is the best option for someone that wants AC in a camper, but on the Facebook group some options have been discussed. I live in the PNW, so not an issue here.

Thanks, 12 months isn't as bad as some I've heard!! Goal would be to get it before the 2023/2024 ski season so it sounds like that may be possible.

We've been tent camping last 10 years with no AC and it's mostly been OK. But we've has some brutal nights in FL/GA/AL - one week in Alabama it was still in the 80's at like midnight, no breeze, insane humidity, pretty tough to sleep.

Right now my wife is a teacher and we have a 9 and 12 year old so we're relegated to lots of Summer travel. In retirement we could avoid that and spend July/August home in our house/AC or do more northern/cooler places like your PNW So no AC isn't a deal breaker, just curious how folks had been fairing in hot/humid weather.

A big reason I want a truck camper over a tow behind is for day use/weekend warrior stuff like changing at the ski hill, eating lunches, bathroom and fresh clothes after a sweaty MTB ride, etc. so I certainly don't need AC for any of that.

I joined the Facebook group so I'll have some enjoyable research/reading there. Thanks!