Slooooow speed "build" of my 1993 Dodge W250 (aka The Bison...

[NorthernWoodsman]

...aka The Family Truckster, aka Clark Griswold)

Since I actually bought this thing, figured I'd start my first ever "build" thread. In reality, this will be where I show off my painfully slow and incremental replacement of all its broken bits and its upgrades as I work towards getting this thing ready to haul a camper and myself around the west and beyond (hopefully).

The Bison was built in 1993 - 2/2/93 to be exact, built in Mexico, and signed off by Hector on 8/2/93 for delivery from the factory. I know the truck was in Washington when I bought it, and when at least one other owner had it, but it also spent some time in Colorado Springs, CO. I don't have a lot of service history for it, but I have some sporadic notes dating back to 1993.

In its current condition, I've identified the following issues:

1. Front leaf springs (Collapsed, may replace with Skyjacker unless someone knows a better brand? I have no experience with Skyjacker, but haven't much luck in finding other brands aside from Tough Country (I think?)).
2. Steering gearbox (Totally shot, and I'm looking at a Redhead Steering Gears unit as a replacement at ~$320, but also found AC Delco for $129. Redhead is just down the freeway from me, but not sure how much better they are over AC Delco or similar and whether they're worth the +$200?).
3. Steering shaft (Replacing with a Borgeson as soon as possible).
4. 4WD dash indicator isn't working (Solenoid?).
5. Doors are a bit loose (up/down) (Someone on another forum said I might be able to replace the pins from NAPA for about $8, but not sure if that's the actual issue.).
6. Power steering pump is leaking (Any suggestions on a good, quality replacement? I've seen AC Delco and Cardone mostly online.).
7. Left rear wheel bearing is leaking.
8. The transmission is clunky into D (U-joints on the driveshaft are not that old so I'm skeptical that's the issue. Thoughts?).
9. Sometimes, I get a strange metallic/tinny, spinning sound that sounds like it's either the transmission or driveshaft? (This is baffling me and scaring me a bit. Any ideas on this?).
10. Tires are on their last year (Looking to replace with Coopers in ~ a year in either stock 238/85's or possibly 285/75, 305/70, or 295/75 in the Discoverer AT3 XLT or S/T MAXX.
11. Shocks are old and tired (Swapping in Bilstein as soon as I can.).
12. Auxiliary fuel tank needs to be inspected/cleaned/serviced (Anyone know capacity?).
13. Window weatherstripping need replacing (The'yre cutting up my sleeves and arm, Car ID has them for like $75.).
14. Transfer case is difficult to shift (Is this a known issue or just, hopefully, in need of basic service?).
15. The exhaust brake is an unknown right now.
16. Front air bags won't hold air (Not sure I should even keep these. Were used to level the truck, but good quality springs should take of that. Any reasons to repair and keep the airbags?).
17. Rear air bags are behind the springs and either they or the rear leaf springs are pretty noisy. Or maybe it's a loose spare tire mount. (Not sure if I'll keep these or replace with Firestone RideRite's later on.).
18. Front grille is broken in at least three spots (Plan to pick-n-pull a replacement hopefully and de-chrome it to satin black).
19. Shift indicator needle broke (I want all new gauges any way, the originals have low lighting and are difficult to see at night).
20. Door lock mechanisms either need service or replacement (Doors are kinda difficult to shut and they look old and tired.).
21. Valves needs adjustment or injectors need to be cleaned or replaced (Dealing with white/grey smoke from the exhaust. The webbernet says these or the fuel filter could be the issue. The parts guy at Dodge says it's the aftermarket injectors spraying too much fuel. Thoughts? I don't know the injector brand, but I know they're 250HP injectors...and I really don't want to replace them if I can help it. Two owners ago put on a high performance turbo, but the PO removed and replaced with stock. I'm wondering if there was a smoke issue with the aftermarket turbo?).
22. A/C is unknown at this writing.
23. Factory original stereo is officially dead.
24. Seats need replacing or rebuild.
25. Headliner is coming down and currently held up with push pins. Yes, push pins, and one fishing fly.

The good? No, no, really there is some:

1. The 4WD works.
2. It starts every time perfectly.
3. The power windows are terrifyingly good...as in watch your arm our you might lose it when the windows go up.
4. The ride isn't that bad considering all the suspension issues...and OCD murdering creaks, squeaks, and rattles.
5. The heat is basically a free sauna for me. I'm gonna market the cab to Scandinavians and Air BnB it for extra $
6. Power is decent (But seems like it should be better).
7. All the auxiliary lights on the front work, even if they're weak and nearly ineffectual for the driver. Others will definitely see me coming!
8. The front bumper is ugly, but it has little storage "wings", a winch mount, and large D-rings in place already. Should do the job until $ flow allows for better.
9. Has an exhaust brake.
10. Has a brake controller (I don't know if it works though).
11. 4-inch exhaust (And still in great condition).
12. In the last xx,xxx miles, the PO's had ... done.
13. It fits in compact car spaces (photo below). That counts as a positive, right?
14. Just freshened up the air filter...see that photo down there. Old one was caked in a thick, heavy grey/black grease and the intake tube was coated in the same. This has to be good for at least 50HP, right
15. Interior lighting is crazy bright for 25 year old basic incandescent lights.
16. Nothing dripping on the ground so no other leaks aside from the knowns I think. Everything passes visual too.
17. No major rust anywhere, just small spots of surface rust from scratches and the undercarriage is basically rust free as well.
18. No major body damage from what I can see so far and no signs of any past damage or bodged repairs.

Stopped into the Dodge dealership today and the old timer behind the counter printed out my entire VIN report. Highlights (photos below):

1. Zone 73-San Francisco. Anyone know what that means?
2. AHL - Heavy duty insulation group
3. CHE - Deluxe headliner. See, the photo shows the high end "quilting"
4. DGR - 4-spd. 46RH transmission
5. DHE - Manual shift-on-the-fly transfer case
6. DJF - Dana M210 Wide front axle
7. DMD - 3.55 rear axle ratio
8. DRE - Dana M70 rear axle
9. GAC/GBB/GCB/GEF/ - tinted glass (I'm not seeing that any of it is tinted, at least by todays standards, and all the glass minus the windshield is original.)
10. JJA - Cigar lighter (Just need a liquor cabinet and I'm set!)
11. NBL - Delete EVAP control system
12. NEM - Exterior sound control (Anyone know what this is?)
13. NFE - 24 gallon primary tank (I have no clue what the auxiliary tank capacity is and it's not listed in my report.)
14. NHB - Auxiliary transmission oil cooler (Removed by the PO and currently sitting in my garage.)
15. NHD - Heavy duty transmission oil cooler
16. NHK - Engine block heater
17. NMC - Heavy duty engine cooling
18. Family - AD - Pick-up/Sport utility (It's not a full-size truck, it's a sport utility vehicle!)
19. Trim - TT - Premium cloth bucket seats (You wouldn't think that now. They're worn the ****** out, but somehow still comfortable.)
20. SCE - Alcantara wrapped steering wheel (This is gone I think.)
21. SKE - 2105/2500# PAD/Ground front springs (Totally shot and in bad need of replacing.)
22. SNS - 3250/3650# PAD/Ground rear springs
23. SMA - Auxiliary RR spring
24. TWV - LT235/85 R16E tires (Guy at the dealership said that only dually's came with these tires back then so they must have been special ordered. Current tires are shorter and fatter and hopefully off the truck in a year from now.)
25. PB6 - Dark Spectrum blue (PRI PNT - JB6) & QV4 - Light champagne Met CC (SEC PNT - KV4)

*EDIT* - Guy at the Dodge dealership pointed out that the report said my truck came with 16x6.5 aluminum wheels. However, it also says it came with 16x6 steel wheels. He looked at the report again and said, no, definitely had aluminum wheels. I can't find a single photo of the 250/350 trucks with aluminum wheels, factory that is. Mostly just curious what was on it stock. I plan to remove the junk aluminum 16x8 wheels on it and replace w/steel wheels as soon as I can.

 

[marshal]

awesome truck! IMO i would return the driveline as close to stock as possible, the 12v is a bulletproof motor in its stock form - when you start increasing the output you start sucking the life out of it. Im not saying it wouldnt be reliable, but its already a miracle that the body of that truck has lasted as long as it has - 12v have quite the reputation of outliving the vehicles they're bolted to.

definitely go with the redhead box over the AC Delco. Redhead makes really good stuff and its worth the price difference.

as far as springs, i've heard good stuff about Custom Suspension softride leafs. If you really want a good leaf though, you could call up Deaver and have a set made to your specifications. Thats the ultimate though.

dont feel bad about all the maintenance stuff, honestly the rebuild is my favorite section of build threads, especially when they're super thorough

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

awesome truck! IMO i would return the driveline as close to stock as possible, the 12v is a bulletproof motor in its stock form - when you start increasing the output you start sucking the life out of it. Im not saying it wouldnt be reliable, but its already a miracle that the body of that truck has lasted as long as it has - 12v have quite the reputation of outliving the vehicles they're bolted to.

definitely go with the redhead box over the AC Delco. Redhead makes really good stuff and its worth the price difference.

as far as springs, i've heard good stuff about Custom Suspension softride leafs. If you really want a good leaf though, you could call up Deaver and have a set made to your specifications. Thats the ultimate though.

dont feel bad about all the maintenance stuff, honestly the rebuild is my favorite section of build threads, especially when they're super thorough

By driveline, I'm guessing you're referring to replacing the injectors with stock units? It's just not in the budget considering the suspension work I knew needed work. Have you owned Redhead products? Their customer service so far has been awesome and they're local so I can drive to their shop and exchange parts, which I like. I'll look at the Custom Suspension leafs, a soft[er] ride would be appreciated by my lower back. I wish this could be more thorough, maybe one day when I have more cash flow. I'm focused on mechanical/functionality, not looks right now.

 

[locrwln]

Definitely go Redhead. Most of the other parts store brands (regardless of the name on the box) are all rebuilt in the same one or two factories and most everyone I know that has purchased one, ended up having to return it at least once as the seals would start leaking within a year.

My Redhead box has been on my truck for a couple of years, works like new, and is leak free.

Also, it sounds like too much injector and not enough turbo.

Jack

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Definitely go Redhead. Most of the other parts store brands (regardless of the name on the box) are all rebuilt in the same one or two factories and most everyone I know that has purchased one, ended up having to return it at least once as the seals would start leaking within a year.

My Redhead box has been on my truck for a couple of years, works like new, and is leak free.

Also, it sounds like too much injector and not enough turbo.

Jack

Thanks Jack. Two owners ago did have a larger turbo installed along with the 250HP injectors and I am wondering if that combo worked fine, but now that the PO switched back to the stock turbo, that pairing isn't working out as well. I have an inquiry into Oregon Fuel Injection to pick their brains. So far, best I can tell, injectors would be ~$300+labor to swap. Guess going back to the larger turbo would be not the best idea? I don't like things too modified as to minimize issues.

 

[UHAULER]

Hopefully you can get the suspension worked out. My friend had a 93 regular cab cummins, 5 speed with stock 235/85/16 tires aired way up and I swear it was the worst riding pickup I've ever been in. Are the front leaf springs really short ? I always though someone could come up with a kit to put on longer front springs off a ford or custom.

 

[bknudtsen]

Just did a Redhead box on my ‘83 K10. Night and day difference. Worth the little extra cost, and the fact that they are local-ish makes me feel good about doing business with them.

I agree with the other guys that you have too much fuel and not enough air. Diesels love air. 250hp injectors are way too big for a stock turbo/intake, imho. If you add a bigger turbo, then you are dealing with higher boost pressures. Do you know if you motor has headstuds or other work done to deal with the increased power? Is the tranny beefed up? I think the best course of action would be to dial the fuel back, to something like +50hp, rather than go for big power.

Nice truck. Look forward to watching the rebuild.

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Hopefully you can get the suspension worked out. My friend had a 93 regular cab cummins, 5 speed with stock 235/85/16 tires aired way up and I swear it was the worst riding pickup I've ever been in. Are the front leaf springs really short ? I always though someone could come up with a kit to put on longer front springs off a ford or custom.

It's really not that bad, even with the busted front suspension. My 85 Toyota PU with the solid front axle and all good suspension bits was far worse. Maybe it's the benefit of having a 1,000# motor up there dampening things

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Just did a Redhead box on my ‘83 K10. Night and day difference. Worth the little extra cost, and the fact that they are local-ish makes me feel good about doing business with them.

I agree with the other guys that you have too much fuel and not enough air. Diesels love air. 250hp injectors are way too big for a stock turbo/intake, imho. If you add a bigger turbo, then you are dealing with higher boost pressures. Do you know if you motor has headstuds or other work done to deal with the increased power? Is the tranny beefed up? I think the best course of action would be to dial the fuel back, to something like +50hp, rather than go for big power.

Nice truck. Look forward to watching the rebuild.

Great to hear! Sounds like Redhead is the solution.

As for the injectors, this is a monkey wrench. I have little cash for this truck for the next few months and was hoping to use what I have to sort some of the steering and suspension. May be best to sort out the fuel issue so I'm not needlessly burning fuel (which might explain my mpg's), and swimming in a cloud of diesel fumes.

No head stud work that I know of and definitely no transmission work. I may contact the folks who did the turbo and injector install and ask them about the head studs now that you mention it.

Today I was quoted $79.20/ea. for rebuilt injectors (stock) + $40/ea. core charge. Labor was $180. That was a place in Oregon though who was recommended for injectors, still need to ask locally.

Do you know a good place in NW Washington for injectors? The +50HP sounds enticing, a little more power, but not too much. Don't want to start down the high performance modification rabbit hole. I want strong and reliable over flash.

 

[bknudtsen]

I’ve heard good things about these guys.

Ranaway Diesel

My biggest concern about overfueling a diesel is increased egt’s. Without the extra airflow from an intake and bigger turbo, you are at risk of damaging the engine and most certainly wasting fuel. Steering and suspension are important safety items as well. Prioritizing needs on a fixer upper is always tricky with a limited budget, I know. I have been doing it for over a year on my project.

Brad

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

I’ve heard good things about these guys.

Ranaway Diesel

My biggest concern about overfueling a diesel is increased egt’s. Without the extra airflow from an intake and bigger turbo, you are at risk of damaging the engine and most certainly wasting fuel. Steering and suspension are important safety items as well. Prioritizing needs on a fixer upper is always tricky with a limited budget, I know. I have been doing it for over a year on my project.

Brad

I'm definitely wasting fuel. My EGT's seem to be ok. Thankfully someone installed a tach., pyrometer, manifold pressure, and oil temp. gauges on the dash. EGT's stay between 200-300F around town. My research says that is normal, thankfully.

I think I can do the swap on my own. The videos I've watched make it look easier than I thought. Still need to read up on it more before attempting. I'm thinking I could probably also sell my +250HP injectors on craigslist to help recoup costs. Now to figure out which injectors would be the best option...?

What's your project?

 

[bknudtsen]

I'm definitely wasting fuel. My EGT's seem to be ok. Thankfully someone installed a tach., pyrometer, manifold pressure, and oil temp. gauges on the dash. EGT's stay between 200-300F around town. My research says that is normal, thankfully.

I think I can do the swap on my own. The videos I've watched make it look easier than I thought. Still need to read up on it more before attempting. I'm thinking I could probably also sell my +250HP injectors on craigslist to help recoup costs. Now to figure out which injectors would be the best option...?

What's your project?

Here’s my build thread.

1983 Chevrolet K10

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Here’s my build thread.

1983 Chevrolet K10

Great job on that interior!

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Last weekend I changed out the fuel filter, and the old one was super rusty!

I also managed to dig around a bit cleaning up some wiring (including removing the ancient disc changer), degreased a bunch of stuff, and located the source of the loud rattling I've been hearing every time the truck so much as moves. Was worried it something in my suspension, but thankfully it's just whoever installed my exhausts poor workmanship.

I had to coat hanger it to keep it off the rear shock until I can get some exhaust work done. That work is replacing that rusted pipe from behind the muffler, having the hangers redone, and repairing the mount for the downpipe which seems to be either loose and/or missing a portion of it.

Not sure that shock that's worn through is doing much. No real issues from that area, suspension wise, so guess it's holding up for the moment. Plan is to add Bilsteins in the very near future.

I'm looking into leaf springs right now as well so I can plan/budget for repairs. Recently found a company called Dendoff Springs in the Vancouver, B.C. area. Waiting on a quote from them now, and I'm wondering how they'll do price wise against say, Skyjacker? I'd love to buy from a local company and could drive up to get these. Good exchange rate right now too. Not sure about what the taxes and duties and all would add to the price?

Anyone familiar with them?

Lastly, Pac Brake was awesome week before last. They emailed me all the documents for things like install, troubleshooting/maintenance, part #'s. Excited to see if and how it works and if not how to repair it.