Steering/ suspension question-Ford SD

[LeftCoastKiteboarding]

Happy weekend guys,

I'll ask the question first: Any recommendations on a quality drop pitman arm for my 2002 F350 4x4? Mine has failed and I'm not all that impressed with the cast garbage from Rough Country. I'd love to find something that is quality metal and machine work that would last. Have to replace it and will order a new Blue Top steering box at the same time since I'll be in there.

Thanks!

The backstory and a pretty scathing review of Rough Country parts and customer (dis)service.

On Friday I was parallel parking out front after work and as I backed into the space heard a loud clunk. New sound I had not heard before. I looked briefly under the front end but a cold beer was calling my name so let it go for the day.

Saturday morning I hopped in to go get an alignment since I put new wheels/tires on last week. Pulling away from the curb I heard the same sound so I pulled into a parking lot and had a look. Where the drop track bar bracket bolts to the frame I found that one of the two bolts was sheared off and the other had backed completely out and was hanging literally by a thread. Shop is only 2 blocks away so I limped in and they put it up on the rack. Not only had the 2 frame bolts failed, in the center where the bracket bolts to the frame crossmember the 'weld' had failed. There is a round length of tube that is welded to the bracket and a large washer is welded over the frame end of the tube so a bolt can be threaded through the bracket and the frame crossmember and hold everything together. Basically, that joint where the washer is welded to the tube section takes all of the force of that joint. Thins is, instead of welding that washer (or plate or whatever you want to call it) all the way around where it meets the tube, it was welded only about 30 degrees around, making a weld joint about 3/4 of an inch long instead of full perimeter which would have been almost over 4 inches of weld. (1 1/2" diameter tube section.)
The washer par was pulled away from the tube section of the bracket and the weld had almost completely failed.

I called Rough country and explained that the lift kit is about 3 years old, I had the receipt, and that the truck has not been wheeled, I haven't curbed it, have only been on paved roads. I explained that the weld was not completed etc.. Basically he told me to pound sand, they wouldn't warranty it and pretty much hung up.

The shop pulled it all apart and welded it up correctly and put everything back together with grade 8 bolts. On top of that the cast pitman arm that came with the kit has gotten so sloppy on the steering box shaft that it will not stay tight. Obviously Rough Country isn't going to deal with that either.

I didn't choose this Rough County lift kit, it came on the truck, but there's not much to it so I figured it'd be ok. They've been around and according to the customer service tech it's all made in the USA. It's just springs, the pitman arm, and the track bar bracket. What could possibly go wrong.... Not very impressed with their quality or service.

Pretty much has me questioning if I should just throw it all away and start over.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

3 years is a long time on suspension and steering components. I don't know what Rough Country's warranty is. but I wouldn't think they would off anything past a year especially on off road parts. You say it is street driven but CS guy doesn't know that. You claim it is 3 years old but it was on truck when you bought it. Warranty is not transferable and you don't know who installed it and the quality of their work. You don't know how hard they drove it.

Trac bar sees lots of stress placed on it for lot of different reasons. It is something that should be inspected every oil change along with the rest of the suspension. It is not something that just happened, it happened over a long period of time.

If pitman arm was not properly torqued when installed no doubt it was sloppy. Also shaft may have been worn when installed.

I don't think you really have grounds to bad mouth Rough Country. This is not the kind of equipment that gets installed and forgot about.

Ask those Ford Raptor guys about taking their brand new trucks off road and then show up the dealer wanting warranty frame repairs.

 

[LeftCoastKiteboarding]

To others... Still open to thoughts on better quality pitman arm for this truck. I just don't love the quality of a cast part with a broached internal spline section in this application. And FWIW, my point was not to trash RC, but rather to pass along an experiance with a company and it's parts/support. No other way for folks to get any feedback on them. If we just believed what every manufacturer told us we'd think everything sold was top shelf. By sharing we all gain the benefit of each others experiences and can make better choices. I've never had a bad opinion of Rough Country but always considered them middle of the road parts made for the average weekend warior. Those who demand a little more from their vehicls want to know what to expect from their parts and vendors.

To the OP,

Thanks for the judgement of my right to bad mouth RC. While your points have merit your judgement is a little off.

Actually they they advertise a 'Lifetime Waranty' but yes, only to original purchaser. However, not completly welding up a part shouldn't even be a question. That part had about 30 deg. of what should have been a 360 deg. weld joint. I fabricate in steel as part of my job so I'm not making an amateur assessment. In my world the inspector would have failed my connection and made me cut it apart and start again. That particular failure was 100% lack of quality control and a reputable company would have at least asked for a photo and having seen that jumped through hoops to fix it before tarnishing their reputation. I called and politely offered a chance to make it right. Explained the failure and the reason...politely. They showed zero interest. So on that point I do hold them accountable. A company that makes suspension components needs a better QC process than that.
You are correct that the track bar takes a LOT of lateral force. That's it's job. Given where the failure was there is no question that it failed and caused the additional damage. No excuse for that kind of failure in a part made for a 1 ton truck under normal circumstances.

I agree these things should be checked regularly. I had front end work done 6 months ago and everything checked out ok. I was under there myself about a month ago and no issues. Driveability has been consistent until 3 days ago. While checking this stuff regularly is important, 3 years lifespan is NOT normal. Factory suspension parts will often last 100k or more depending on conditions, sometimes even the entire lifespan of the vehicle, truck has less than 20K on those components. True, the root of the damage did not happen overnight. That mini-weld was flexing a tiny bit over and over until it finally failed, placing both lateral and rotational forces on two bolts in a way that they were not designed for causing them to fail.

In addition, I DO know what the PO did with the truck. He was an older guy and he pulled his trailer with it 3-4 times a year up to the mountians about 100 miles each way. He had a gasser as an everyday truck. In the 5 years he had the truck he put less than 30k on it. On the highway and around town. He's no professional mechanic, and the chance the pitman arm wallowing out due to his install is high. But the weld failure is not on him.

I am not someone who badmouths a company lightly. I only share a poor experience if I feel that it is helpful information to allow others to make informed choices. Heck, I'm not even saying they can't make a good part. Their stuff is probably fine for most folks. However had that particular part failed on me in some of the remote places I travel it would have been pretty unpleasant. In additon, had they taken an interest in their QC and made ANY attempt to make it right I would have let it go as a Friday build problem and accepted a replacement part and covered the labor myself. But they did not. And that reflects poorly on them as a company. And gives me less faith in their products. And is driving me to seek out higher quality components. Take it or leave it. YMMV

 

[Betarocker]

I can't and won't comment on the tracbar bracket, but the pitman arm probably had a re-used nut holding it on. The nut ALWAYS needs to be replaced with a new one whenever it is removed. No amount of Locktite will keep it tight. Once it loosens a bit, it will wallow out the hole and splines of the arm. All brands will be affected the same way.

 

[Superduty]

I can't and won't comment on the tracbar bracket, but the pitman arm probably had a re-used nut holding it on. The nut ALWAYS needs to be replaced with a new one whenever it is removed. No amount of Locktite will keep it tight. Once it loosens a bit, it will wallow out the hole and splines of the arm. All brands will be affected the same way.

The nut being replaced, is that based on personal experience or do all the car/truck manufacturers say such?

I've owned and worked on my own 4x4 trucks, Jeeps and Broncos for a little over 30 years. I have removed pitman arm nuts countless times and have never replaced one. Most, if not all, have a large lock washer. Further, I have never used locktite on a pitman arm. If what you say is accurate about replacing the nut every time, I suppose I have been very lucky - I hope my luck continues.

 

[Superduty]

LeftCoastKiteboarding, how much lift do you have on your truck?

Here is a forged arm.

Here is one from Superlift. Unknown Material

Here is one from Icon. Unknown material

 

[Betarocker]

Personal experience with my previous 2004 SD. Happened on my 2016 where I thought the shop pit a new one on my 2016, but didn't. Caught it early as I was checking all the fasteners.

 

[Betarocker]

Make sure the pitman drop equals the tracbar bracket drop. If they are not the same, expect bumpsteer.

 

[Superduty]

Make sure the pitman drop equals the tracbar bracket drop. If they are not the same, expect bumpsteer.

This is gospel. The angle of the drag link should be the same as the trac bar. If they arent you will have bump steer and it will likely stress the trac bar mount more than needed.

 

[pappawheely]

When I worked for Fabtech, every warranty claim began with "I was just driving down the street."