Super Loaded LR3 Control Arm Questions

#46
I have never had to cut out a bolt thankfully. Air hammer has always been able to drive out the cam bolts.
Do they not use salt on the roads in Colorado? I've had the bolts snap on two occasions when trying to remove the nuts. If the front bolt has to be cut out I replace the arm.
 
#47
They do not. Having said that mine did start its life in Ohio and I have run into a few seized bolts on my rig. Nothing some Oxy-acetylene wasn't able to help along.
 
#48
Besides Zelatore, Does anyone else have experience with the full polybush kit?
I'm thinking of changing out all the bushings that come with the full kit available for the LR3.
 
#50
Besides Zelatore, Does anyone else have experience with the full polybush kit?
I'm thinking of changing out all the bushings that come with the full kit available for the LR3.
My experience with them is a customer installing them in their truck and promptly bringing it to the dealership for us to install factory hydro-bushes. If I recall correctly they were orange.
 
#51
I'm running a fullset

Besides Zelatore, Does anyone else have experience with the full polybush kit?
I'm thinking of changing out all the bushings that come with the full kit available for the LR3.
Hi SRSchick,

I'm running a mostly full set (ARBs and LCA's). What are you interested in knowing?

Cheers,

Ian
 

KMET

Adventurer
#52
Besides Zelatore, Does anyone else have experience with the full polybush kit?
I'm thinking of changing out all the bushings that come with the full kit available for the LR3.
Mine work great! (Fronts only, 4-bushings)

Wasn't easy, but did them myself in my driveway.
 
#53
I only got 12K miles out of the last set of OEM RRS front lower control arms (LCA) on my LR3 - unacceptable! The dealer was more than willing to scratch it up to "a bad set" but not warenty them since parts warenty is only 12 months. I ended up going the poly bushing route with the POLY/LCA kit from Lucky8. So far feels nice and tight and no squeaks. I still have my "OLD" arms w/12K miles on them if anyone wants them to replace the bushings with POLY - just pay shipping (Im in 24121).

 
#54
Kicking up an old post, my brother and I installed the Lucky 8 LCA kit as well. Good kit, had some issues with the terra firma bolts(some of the bolts were not manufactured well).
 
#55
Kicking up an old post, my brother and I installed the Lucky 8 LCA kit as well. Good kit, had some issues with the terra firma bolts(some of the bolts were not manufactured well).
Factory bolts don't work with these? Or was it a TF preference you wanted to go with? Just curious! I have a set of my original LR3 on the shelf that I plan to cut the old, worn out bushings and install poly bushings in all! I installed RRS on Victory mid-year and no issues so far but I want a full rebuild poly set on the shelf since I already have them.

FYI, for those that think poly bushings squeak, use lube, that's the intent of their use or they burn up! Never heard a properly installed and maintained poly bushing go bad but.........
 
#56
Another question: Anyone done upper control arms as well? I think I've got a bad upper control arm on the front passenger side. Can you get to the bolts or not so much? I haven't had a chance to sit down and study on it.

Probably need to do struts as well.
 
#57
I did uppers and lowers at the same time. Both are a relatively straightforward process and not really any different than any other IFS vehicle I've done.

I guess if I had one suggestion and this, of course, is completely budget related to your liking; I would do wheel bearings, axle boots (inner/outer), tie-rods, and tie-rod boots all at the same time. Doing everything at once will zero out your front end with new parts and then get it aligned immediately after giving you another few years of driving comfort, depending on your driving style and trail use of course.

I've learned to stop piece-mealing my suspension/steering repairs a long time ago as it just moves problems around and causes more wear in other areas.

What are your questions about it the process? Anything I can do to help, ask away!
 
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#58
Thank you. I was just wondering how easy it is to access the upper control arms. At first glance, they look difficult to get to. But I think maybe disconnecting the ball joint and pushing the arm up would help. Also I think removing the strut (which I probably need new struts) would assist in access. What did you think about accessing the upper control arms?

The previous owner just did lower control arms and TREs before I purchased the vehicle. Otherwise I would totally agree with you on doing everything at once. Also agree on wheel bearings. If I tear apart the front end, I'll probably also do those and sway bar links and bushings.

I'm also going to be procuring some new impact tools to assist.

Tracking down this shimmy is fixing to get expensive!
 
#59
You can source the Timken wheel bearings from Amazon or other local stores and since your axle while out of the way for the upper control arm, IMO, that is the time to do them! Couple thoughts on the UCA removal. If you are doing struts, super easy task! Once you support the suspension, let the air out completely and they compress relatively easy and come right out. The center 13 or 15mm upper strut bolt can be accessed under the hood by removing the heat shield to the exhaust manifold (I think its a 13mm or 15mm strut nut and one 10mm bolt for the heat shield). You can get the UCA out by itself, but the suspension and hub steering will want to roll over and you can pull the axle out and damage the boots and CV by over-extending. Point is, all of this is manageable, its tight with the strut in but can be done if I remember correctly.

On the bottom of Page 16 on my build page has some good shots of the front end broken down. Honestly, I believe you will same time, effort, and best troubleshoot warn parts by completely disassembling and inspecting everything at once and then putting it back together as you see fit.
 
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#60
Factory bolts don't work with these? Or was it a TF preference you wanted to go with? Just curious! I have a set of my original LR3 on the shelf that I plan to cut the old, worn out bushings and install poly bushings in all! I installed RRS on Victory mid-year and no issues so far but I want a full rebuild poly set on the shelf since I already have them.

FYI, for those that think poly bushings squeak, use lube, that's the intent of their use or they burn up! Never heard a properly installed and maintained poly bushing go bad but.........
No, the issue was the terra firma bolts. The stock bolts had to go back on. Lucky for me, they were in good condition. The tf bolts had the camber spacers installed incorrectly. I just chalk it up to the manufacturing gods not falling in my favor. It wasnt an issue, mor of an inconvenience.
 
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