Sure-Fire Ways to Improve Your Roof Top Tent

I got the bed rack and RTT mounted this weekend. I've bought some ratcheting tie-down straps to make the upgrades like several people have done and will probably get to that tomorrow but the 1st thing we did was add some wood spacers between the tent mounting rails and the rack tubes to spread the weight out a little bit and not deform the rails by bolting it down too tight. I also had to get some longer bolts as the 2" aluminum tube was a little wide for the ones that came with the tent.

I drove around yesterday and didn't notice any handling differences (but never got off camber to see how that was) but today we've got about 25-30mph winds and I can definitely tell there's increased height now. I was getting pushed around pretty good heading into town.

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Got the double D buckles replaced today. I had some 2 piece buckles from a couple of damaged military ruck sacks. Should be plenty strong enough for holding the travel cover down.

Double D Buckles.jpg New Buckles.jpg Both.jpg
 
You will have to go to my build for my many contributions to the this thread. http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/168589-S10-Build-getting-started

Bascially I made a wood collar (2x6) and mounted the old Overland RTT on a contactor cap.

Next cut out the floor and roof so I can gain access from inside. Now I can stand up to pee at night which seems to be a major concern here!

My build is function over form so it is not for everyone but works great for me.
 

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Tepui annex rework for quick set up

I have a Tepui RTT with the annex. My annex seems to work the best when the tent floor height is around 80" from the ground. Since I'm only 5'4" the height makes it difficult to set up the annex, so I rarely would. I hated having to remove my travel cover, try to slide the annex into the sail track then affix the other 3 sides of the annex to the Velcro. Usually the weight of the annex would disconnect it from the Velcro and the whole thing would come back down to the ground. Solution... I went to my local tent, boat canopy and awning manufacturer and worked with them. I bought an additional piece of sail track and permanently mounted it to the bottom of the tent floor, into which i slid a piece of fabric with a wide band of Velcro attached, this stays on the tent full time as well as my travel cover. Then the tent company removed the spline from the annex and replaced it with Velcro. Then they sewed in some small d-rings onto which i hooked on some carabiners. The carabiners will hook into d-rings screwed to the bottom of the tent to support the weight of the annex while i secure the Velcro. I hope the pics help with this description. IMAG0485.jpg IMAG0486.jpg IMAG0489.jpg IMAG0488.jpg
 
I got the bed rack and RTT mounted this weekend. I've bought some ratcheting tie-down straps to make the upgrades like several people have done and will probably get to that tomorrow but the 1st thing we did was add some wood spacers between the tent mounting rails and the rack tubes to spread the weight out a little bit and not deform the rails by bolting it down too tight. I also had to get some longer bolts as the 2" aluminum tube was a little wide for the ones that came with the tent.

I drove around yesterday and didn't notice any handling differences (but never got off camber to see how that was) but today we've got about 25-30mph winds and I can definitely tell there's increased height now. I was getting pushed around pretty good heading into town.

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I put these clamps on my bed rack to attach my tent. They keep the hardware up and out of the way and have a great fit to the rack tubing. Many sizes available with reasonable cost.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#11355t34/=1an0w53

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Thanks! That looks like a snugger, firmer fit than what I did. Plus the rubber should offer more cushion and less chance of squeaking.
They are nice and snug with no squeaks or rattles at all. I took them off once to move the tent over a smidge and the paint was still intact with no signs of rubbing. I purchased some 1" stainless hex cap screws with washers and nylock nuts to fasten them down (also from McMaster)
 
Those dampened pipe clamps are common stuff in the hydraulic & piping trades.
Barring McMaster... I know Fastenal has presence in Canada.. But any industrial supplier should have on hand.
Good point, so any machine fab shop could have something similar. To would use this to hold hard hydraulic line in place on machine frames or even heavy machinery dealer could have this.
 
23 Zero Bundaberg mod

Another vote for the single pin the Sea to Summit buckles!

23Zero Bundaberg RTT
Uses existing straps
No sewing needed
Less than $30 for (4)1.5” buckles from REI
Less than 30 minutes install

Was able to leave the D rings and use the existing loop for the pin end. I saw a pic here in this fantastic thread with the D-rings attached and got my gears going. Saved money without buying new nylon web straps. I was able to leave the Velcro end intact as the Velcro was in good shape with no slippage and leaves the slack adjustable.

A litttle more creativity would be to change the orientation of the straps so the long (unused) end can be used to roll up that damn cover when camping and buckle it to the “tag” end of the buckle strap. Hmmmm. I guess I need to ctc Sea to Summit and see if I can purchase 2 buckle ends to do that.

Lights next. Thanks for all the ideas folks!

 
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As a few have done I replaced my Velcro cinch straps on my Tepui Tent. Only 1 year old and would not hold anymore. I simply cut the Sea to summit straps to length, melted the cuts to prevent fraying. Then I folded the strap over and burnt a screw hole through both sides with a hot wood screw that I heated with a torch. Finally screwed it back in like the factory setup and was done. Took me 20 minutes total and is a much better setup now.
 
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