Talk to me about suspension

Amp34

Member
I have a stock 2017 F150 at the moment and I want to make it a bit more off road ready.

I'm thinking of adding a set of Fox Factory 2.5" shocks all round and doing a minor lift (2" at front, 1" at rear) but I'm a bit confused regarding lifts and shocks and travel.

Stupid questions alert
The fronts/coilovers are indicated as 0-2" lift and the rears 0-1.5" lift. Does this mean they can be adjusted to that height and I get that lift without additional spacers and parts, or does that mean they can accommodate that lift? Additionally if you do a 2" lift is this going to reduce the stroke/travel of the shock itself?

Also I understand UCA's are needed after a 2" lift. With the setup above I'd prefer to run a stock UCA until a later date.

Going to be running stock 18" rims with 275/70R18 tires (upgraded from 275/65/R18).
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Those tires should fit with just an inch in the front and no rear adjustment IIRC.

Bad lifts can reduce the front downtravel, which gives a poor quality ride. You also have to be mindful of cv angles. King OEM coilovers and OEM rears are available from Filthymotorsports. Wait until the 150 guys chime in. I'm a 250/350 guy. All of our best 150's over here are very mild builds, but very nice. A big Superduty or Powerwagon needs 37" tires to keep up with them.

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/how-can-i-fit-35-tires-380146/index2/

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/level-35x12-50-1-4-spacers-no-rubbing-418221/index3/
 
Last edited:

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Find a good shock tuner to work with, don't buy off the shelf valving.

I recommend Ryan Raker at Accutune Offroad


The Fox shocks he valved for my LX45 project have been amazing.
 

Amp34

Member
Thanks for the replies. The 275/70R18 are actually 33" (assuming the links were provided because of the 35s?) and should fit without any modification as far as I have read. I'm thinking of a minor lift just to give me a bit more body clearance (especially for departure angle) while not doing much to the ride. I may have to get a helper lift as I'll have around 1000lb in the back at times.

I did consider King but I may have to import them from the US (in Canada) whereas Fox are available at several locations. It seems like it's basically personal choice between the two.

What is the benefit of getting the shocks revalved vs the DSC option on the shocks?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
What is the benefit of getting the shocks revalved vs the DSC option on the shocks?

The DSC can only control a percentage of total shock valving, specifically compression. It is only working on the amount of fluid displaced by compression of the shaft into the body of the shock. That is the amount of fluid that is moving back and forth to the reservoir. I could do the math, but it is a small fraction of the total fluid in the shock body. The DSC is a good option for being able to tune the ride for different tire pressures or changing loads in the vehicle, but not adjust overall valving.

The magic in high end shocks is in the piston and valving on both sides in the main body of the shock.
There really is no one size fits all solution.
 

Grassland

Well-known member
Where in Canada are you?
I haven't heard good things about Fox shocks that go through slushy, snowy, salty winter.
Premature seal leaks. Bad corrosion. Can't speak first hand though, Fox is out of my budget, and I don't want to spend that kind of $ and have to spend it again shortly thereafter.

Typically on your front shocks the aftermarket units have snap rings or collars that can be used to set lift height for the front. Some have 3-4 settings others are fully adjustable.
<2" front lift is ideal as you have read. You can still retain a good range of travel, as most application specific shocks have travel ranges maximized. So for example a spacer lift with stock shocks reduces down travel because 2" of travel is eaten up by the lift "extending" the stock shock, an aftermarket shock may have more down travel than stock to alleviate this issue.
However your other components like CV axle, tie rods, UCA/ball joints etc don't get extra travel. So they become your limits.
In 13th gen F150 with stock front end, you typically get the best range of travel and reliability <2" of front lift.

For the rear of you plan on usually having 1000# in/on the bed, I'd go with a full new leaf pack, or an add a leaf.
Don't get taller blocks to lift the rear.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
typically those numbers on shocks indicate that they'll accommodate the range of motion of a stock suspension configuration and one with that increased suspension height. Put too long a shock in place and it gets destroyed when your suspension completely compresses. Likewise if a shock has too short of a stroke to accommodate your full physical / mechanical droop of your suspension geometry.
If you try and 'Bro' it by putting too-long shocks thinking that gives you more lift, you'll be making an expensive mistake.

/But that's the 'Bro Life' anyway, innit?
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Have FM or Acu setup some Kings. Tell them to err on the firm/stiff side. Especially rear rebound.

If it's too firm, open them up an remove a shim or two. It ain't rocket science.
 

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