Target R values for surfaces?

#31
Quote:
The SIPs (structural insulated panels) material Victorian uses to build his structures are scientifically the best option for a camper. Air tight, a good compromise of R value to wall/roof/floor thickness and dew point issues minimized. due to no air entrainment. The drawback is that designs can be drawn with an Etch-A-Sketch, meaning very rectangular.

Thank you. Very nice to hear :)
 
#32
Taking the science into account, retrofitting a metal bodied van or trailer is not as simple as just spraying the walls with closed cell foam because there isn't enough insulation to fully create a thermal cocoon. Any moisture inherently trapped between the foam and metal skin has no means to be evacuated and can lead to rusting. A layer of Roxul with a thin layer of 2 pound foam to make an air barrier will allow the humidity to bounce around in vapour form eventually finding a way out in the drainage ports throughout the bodywork. Roxul has the benefit of after getting wet, it will revert back to its R value once dried. Fiberglass batt once wet can never regain its R value.
Good points and please allow me to suggest another material instead of Roxul or Fiberglass.

3M Thinsulate(TM) SM600L is specifically engineered for use in vehicles and passes FMVSS-302. It's hydrophobic so moisture does not affect it. Impressive noise reduction as well. Based on the feedback we hear, Thinsulate(TM) appears to be the best practice among DIY and professional van builders/upfitters. PM me for a sample.

I agree that SIPs (sandwich composite) are the best combination of structure and insulation and as such a great solution for building a camper body. Thinsulate(TM) could be used to increase R value and reduce noise. We have some thinner versions that might be applicable. SM400L and AU4002-5
 
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java

Expedition Leader
#33
Good points and please allow me to suggest another material instead of Roxul or Fiberglass.

3M Thinsulate(TM) SM600L is specifically engineered for use in vehicles and passes FMVSS-302. It's hydrophobic so moisture does not affect it. Impressive noise reduction as well. Based on the feedback we hear, Thinsulate(TM) appears to be the best practice among DIY and professional van builders/upfitters. PM me for a sample.

I agree that SIPs (sandwich composite) are the best combination of structure and insulation and as such a great solution for building a camper body. Thinsulate(TM) could be used to increase R value and reduce noise. We have some thinner versions that might be applicable. SM400L and AU4002-5
I have been interested in Thinsulate for a few spots in my truck. How small of quantities will you sell? I am thinking body cavities in the cab, around my cab-camper gasket, and under the head liner in the cab. Thoughts?
 
#34
I have been interested in Thinsulate for a few spots in my truck. How small of quantities will you sell? I am thinking body cavities in the cab, around my cab-camper gasket, and under the head liner in the cab. Thoughts?
Thank you for writing. The smallest roll of 3M Thinsulate(TM) we offer is 5 linear feet (@60" width) so 25 sq ft. It would be an appropriate noise and thermal insulator for the areas you mention. We stock 3 varieties: SM400L, SM600L, AU4002-5 and also have Low-E (3/16" closed cell aluminum skinned insulation in the same product category as Reflectix). Check DIYvan.com for contact info and links to our stores or you are welcome to visit us in Hood River.

All the best,
Hein
 
#36
In a camper sized space, the dominate factor in thermal efficiency is not R value of the walls. It is air exchange. .....The best strategy is to eliminate cold bridging, including windows, and maybe shoot for an R value in the walls of 5 to 7. Any more than that is mostly wasted.
We have a winner!!

Unless your camper is a 2000 sq ft house, then house guidelines for insulation do not apply.