The DiscoDavis Sandglow Thread

DiscoDavis

Explorer
05/02/2017: Did not pay attention

Tried to back the car out of the garage with the drivers door open, got caught on a workbench and bent the check strap to crap. Bulkhead was already dented but now I know how...

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I'll take it off and fix it with a vise one of these days.

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DiscoDavis

Explorer
05/04/2017: Rear door spare

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Got a mantec from RN. Did not know there are two styles, all that changes is where the bottom hinge ends up, I have the one that sits a bit lower. The 110 came with this weird thing modeled off of a pickup tailgate sort of frame using pickup hardware, which if you see my car will explain why were pickup cotters bolted into the rear of the tub, and hinges on the bumper. The door plate was blanked off with a piece of galvanized steel. I have seen old footage with some 110's having this plate bare as you see here, but the swingout was one of the concessions I am willing to make with regards to originality. The old weird carrier is not original as far as I can tell, and the PO already removed the middle hinge on the door and lost it so I have no choice if I want a door spare.

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Blanking plate

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Pickup Cotter bolted into where the middle hinge would be on the door

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As far as I can tell these are Land Rover tailgate hinge brackets

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Most everything removed from the back

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Took the door apart

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Somewhat funky, I would like to replace with aluminum and perhaps save the vinyl skin to swap. Very little structural integrity left.

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Whoever did this hardware did a great job. Most everything was siliconed which kept the threads intact, zero sticking or corrosion. All the hardware was 8.8 and in fantastic shape. I kept all of it as spares.

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Cotter was in the way of the top hinge to go in

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Removed

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Mantec instructions were pretty good, luckily if you see above someone had added a bit of stiffening pieces to the door so I just bolted everything in. Did not drill the extra edge holes, connection seemed more than fine for just holding the swingout to the door.

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The bottom hinge ran into a problem. See the far right bolt is meant to be a dinky short one included in the kit, but the roll cage is in the way and I was not going to remove a bolt just to have the mount fit better. So Joe was over and cut into the hinge plate so we could accomodate the rollcage bolt. We did this the night the mantec was delivered so it was an interesting feeling butchering a brand new part.

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The top hinge was ok, but the eagle eyed among you will notice that now the support bar that connects the rear passenger corner of the rack to the tub no longer fits there. This is something we unfortunately need to correct. Either modify the original bar with a few extra drilled holes OR fab a duplicate bar that is shorter and somewhat different. I have identical materials to make one so it is not complicated to cut and weld a bit of square tube. BUT I would like to keep the original bar because otherwise it will just get lost in a box somewhere and that's one less original piece on the car...

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Bottom hinge

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Same issue as with the vertical bar, it looked like the car was going to lose the bumperette because of the mount. However it almost just fit perfectly back in between the hinge pivot and the backing plate, so one bolt short I put it back on. I was really happy with this. Swapped out the roll cage bolt (the threads were trashed) later for a 10.9 grade one of the same size, then put some liquid electrical tape in the cutout gap to try and keep dirt and water away.

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Works really well. The car looks a bit more correct. Still working on that vertical bar. The studs for the wheel are threaded so that I fit one lugnut each on the stud before the wheel goes on, and one each to hold the wheel to the stud over it. So in theory I have a couple spare nuts available if something gets lost or broken. Plus the stud end and nut are flush with this offset.

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DiscoDavis

Explorer
05/17/2017: Water pump

Got home from work, 110 was idling in the driveway fine. ******** chatting with Joe, turned back and she was dribbling coolant all over the axle and the dirt... poop. Didn't even take a break and drove into the garage for surgery. Remember the snapped fanbelt? Really glad we addressed the fan nut threads with grease...

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(you can see the SuperWarnch strap is still on here :))

Fortunately her previous owner did give me a spare pump because he did the same job in a parking lot, but no seal so I luckily had ordered a few at the swap meet earlier.

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My interpretation of modern art

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No clue what brand this pump is... hopefully not britpart

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Not a bad time to swap the thermostat too (it was working fine), whoever did this before me was again a lifesaver by using copper grease on all the bolts!!!

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New stat=Left Old stat=Right; Both appear identical.

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Was very careful with the pump bolts, again, they were copper greased. Thank you!

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New pump on, remembered to grease the paper gasket, cleaned mating faces with a razor blade and a scrub pad

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I regreased the bolts!

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All this needed to come off to get the fan shroud out

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Bled and did the first test drive at 1am. Drove to work in the morning.

Note: It was a pain to clean up all the spilt coolant and recycle into containers for disposal, but it is important not to pollute. Useful to have a little water spray bottle to wash all the areas with coolant residue.
 

Kgh

Let’s go already!
Nice work Davis. Methodical and ordered pump replacement, I like.

I have seen a few older Defenders with the rear crossmember hinges. Weird how some stuff left the factory...

Thanks for keeping this updated.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Nice work Davis. Methodical and ordered pump replacement, I like.

I have seen a few older Defenders with the rear crossmember hinges. Weird how some stuff left the factory...

Thanks for keeping this updated.

Thank you Kip :) Good intel

New update to come, been busy and always something going on with the car. Replacement water pump has been leaking coolant from the relief hole since day 1, got a new pump both water and diesel lift waiting now... turns out Rovahfarm [only?] sells the Britpart ones... So next time round I need to find the best quality make.

Did a short trip the past weekend, bit tippy, but brought some pro photographers with. Next build definitely leaning towards HCPU with cage and another husky winch... man those things work good. Another sandglow car might be a good call, shamel trophy or something ;)

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Found this photo of an old SD prototype for the trophy.
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I start to see where the sickness starts... there's always another landy that would do this or that job just a bit better.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Serviced the swivel ball grease.

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It seems all the one shot packets are 370 or 375mL

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I did laugh when I read this. Suitable for all Land Rovers, period :)

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What came out of the swivels maybe added up to barely 1 packet, seems they got low.

Axle bump stops


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Old and rusty plate, rubber fell off a long time ago

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Broke the bolts, much rust

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cleaned the mounting face and spray painted it just lightly

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Used a proline RN part, and some extra bolts I had lying around, not exact length
 
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DiscoDavis

Explorer
Pressure testing the snorkel, Pt I

A plumber at work made this for me to test the snorkel for pressure (figure 3psi = roughly 10ft of water)

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the fender to snorkel body was rotted, most of the collars at the airbox also leaked. Unsuccessful

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Basically just a sealing collar, fitting for compressor hose, valve, and a gauge to show loop pressure.

To be continued.
 
Pressure testing the snorkel, Pt I

A plumber at work made this for me to test the snorkel for pressure (figure 3psi = roughly 10ft of water)


To be continued.

Connor,

I love whatching the build and when I finally get around to my own Defender, I'll have lots of references to go back to on here.

I build and pressure test a lot of tanks for my bikes; gas tanks and oil tanks. My recommendation is pressurize to 1psi and let it sit for 15 min. If it holds, go to 2-3psi and do the same. After that, you are pretty much good as you will never be below 1 atmosphere unless you are Camel Scuba! hahaha

DO NOT go anything more than 5 PSI as that is enough to cause serious damage to just about any type of structure and actually cause you to open up leaks. I've watched guys blow the welds and bungs right out of a tanks at 7 psi.

Hope this helps anyone who reading and pressure testing things.

Love the build, so envious!

Hope to link up when I get to Cali!
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Connor,

I love whatching the build and when I finally get around to my own Defender, I'll have lots of references to go back to on here.

I build and pressure test a lot of tanks for my bikes; gas tanks and oil tanks. My recommendation is pressurize to 1psi and let it sit for 15 min. If it holds, go to 2-3psi and do the same. After that, you are pretty much good as you will never be below 1 atmosphere unless you are Camel Scuba! hahaha

DO NOT go anything more than 5 PSI as that is enough to cause serious damage to just about any type of structure and actually cause you to open up leaks. I've watched guys blow the welds and bungs right out of a tanks at 7 psi.

Hope this helps anyone who reading and pressure testing things.

Love the build, so envious!

Hope to link up when I get to Cali!

This is a concern, I did let the valve go wide open one of the first times and up to 8psi before the collar ejected the apparatus off. At least LR overengineered some of these turbo hoses! Since then it was 1psi, 2psi, and stop at 3psi which was more than enough.

Better get here quick! Switzerland is calling ;)
 
This is a concern, I did let the valve go wide open one of the first times and up to 8psi before the collar ejected the apparatus off. At least LR overengineered some of these turbo hoses! Since then it was 1psi, 2psi, and stop at 3psi which was more than enough.

Better get here quick! Switzerland is calling ;)

Are you moving?
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Tool hardware Part I

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After months of using zip ties, tried a few straps, including this LR one which was OK but not correct

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Then we found these britpart straps, which are about as close as can be to the mantec ones (spanset), buckles good, strap length was correct, double holes spaced correctly. Also got some genuine LR rivets from Rovers North

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Here's how the LR rivets compare to the standard fare hardware store 3/16" rivets

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Drilled the old rivets out and got to it

Shovel:

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Pickaxe:

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One might notice the buckles were reversed on the new straps, I just prefer it this way to access tools, and so that the door would not catch the buckles if they hung down.

I did learn that the LR rivets take much more force to set, it would have been much easier to use a pneumatic tool but it is possible with a hand rivet gun.

Next: CT axe mount
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Tool Hardware Part II

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(discontinued Mantec item, photo from JohnCraddockLtd.co.uk)

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(photo from google images)

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(photo from dieselworldmag.com)

Poring over old videos and photos, there was a very hard to find piece missing from the car (probably lost after the cars were de-equipped for post-trophy sale). The Axe mount is one strap for the handle, and a pocket for the axe head. A fellow from Belgium had an original one and was nice enough to have copies made. Thought the axe pocket was aluminum originally, this one is steel, something to check when I see another camel. The holes were also too small for the 3/16" rivets, so while I did drill this one out to match, I also do not know what the original size was for the holes. I would hazard a guess that they were 3/16"

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One way I knew that the brownchurch rack on the car was original was because it had 4 holes for this missing mount. Popped right on in a few minutes :)

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