The JTs ability to handle weight

TSnider

Member
Hey guys, I am looking into building a new truck this year and I am in between the Tacoma and the Gladiator. Obviously very different trucks, but help me understand some things about the Jeeps if you would. I'm a Toyota enthusiast but the current Tacoma is underwhelming, but I still haven't ruled it out.

With the Gladiators, this would specifically be a Rubicon trim, how do these things do with weight? Plenty of builds show up at the Overland Expo and look great but a lot of them are show trucks. The Tacoma is ancient but they are known to put up with heavy builds and deal with the weight quite well. I will be putting an Alucab Canopy Camper on whichever truck I get.

If I go the route of the Gladiator, I will go 37s. I read that the Dana 44 should be upgraded for a heavy build like I am describing. I also read the JT has a newer Dana 44 that is beefier than the old ones and dimension wise is actually more similar to the old Dana 60. When I do get into rocks, I do not have a heavy foot. I follow the "slow as possible, fast as necessary rule and always have. I don't like breaking stuff. My 07 Fj 8" diff (notoriously weak) put up with my heavy build for years, and I assume its because I don't spin my tires, I take a different line. Trail difficulty trips I get into are places like Colorados Pearl Pass, Utahs Lockheart basin. Typical stuff. I don't really wheel to wheel, I just do it to get to cool places.

This build would have the water tank and a build out in the rear. The JT is a cool platform because it has a similar payload to the Tacoma, but already has the bumpers and some armor, vs with the Tacoma you have to add everything.

This will not be a daily driver. I appreciate your help educating a long time Toyota fan boy. Not sure what route I'll go, but the JT is a very cool platform for sure.
 

Bushmaster5K

New member
We have a 2020 JTR with AEV 2.5" lift, Hellwig swaybar, AEV Borah rims, Nitto 37" muds, Long Range Automotive 17 gallon auxiliary fuel tank and in the process of installing full Battle Born solar/battery system.

The AEV lift supports the weight with no problem.

I'll post some pics (from my phone)
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
We have a 2020 JTR with AEV 2.5" lift, Hellwig swaybar, AEV Borah rims, Nitto 37" muds, Long Range Automotive 17 gallon auxiliary fuel tank and in the process of installing full Battle Born solar/battery system.

The AEV lift supports the weight with no problem.

Do you have the heavy lift springs on the AEV kit?
(I'll be installing them on my Gladiator next week)

-Dan
 

Bushmaster5K

New member
Do you have the heavy lift springs on the AEV kit?
(I'll be installing them on my Gladiator next week)

-Dan
We will be ordering them in the next month. I haven't finished the interior build yet. It rides better empty or with the Alu-cab than it ever did stock. After returning home from the install, the CAT scale weight with 39 gal of fuel in the tanks was 6160 pounds (2960 front & 3200 rear).

Dan - Thank you for sharing your travels over the years.
 

Bushmaster5K

New member
Tsnider here are two pics checking brake/ abs lines and measuring shock comp/ext.

Sorry, stock tires in these pics. Daily drive the stocks to wear them out.
 

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Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
We will be ordering them in the next month. I haven't finished the interior build yet. It rides better empty or with the Alu-cab than it ever did stock. After returning home from the install, the CAT scale weight with 39 gal of fuel in the tanks was 6160 pounds (2960 front & 3200 rear).

That weight is really interesting... my Africa JK as it went around Africa was 6200.
Amazing that an expedition Gladiator and an expedition JK can be close to the identical weight.

-Dan
 

billiebob

Well-known member
I read that the Dana 44 should be upgraded for a heavy build like I am describing. I also read the JT has a newer Dana 44 that is beefier than the old ones
If you are tender on the loud pedal the stock JT will be fine. The need to upgrade is based mostly on abusive driving. Guys who are still in 3rd gear or 4H and end up against a rock then pin it. The automatic will eliminate a lot of that by always gearing down soon enough. Using 4L when the going is rugged. And never pinning it. Save the loud pedal for the highway, pick the correct gear to crawl.

JTs have a pretty impressive payload and towing capacity for a Wrangler based truck but they are not 3/4 ton full size trucks so there is no real need for a D60. Overloading it and abusive driving are the issues..... an idiot can break anything. Pay attention to the axle payload ratings.

Pick the correct gear so you don't twist a driveshaft and all should be good.
 
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billiebob

Well-known member
Another note on GVWR..... just like speed limits these are ratings when all is ideal. GVWR is based on running on paved, level roads. Add the extremes of mountain trails or off roading and the GVWR is irrelevant. The Catch 22..... you won't buy it if they tell you the truth so they look at the 2WD F150 and say yeah we can match that where a 2WD F150 gets driven.

So you buy it and head literally off road, crossing streams, following powerlines absolutely grossed out, often overloaded even on a paved city street and feel slighted when the dealership says, not warranty.

But in a society where every kid got a ribbon even for placing last,.... you end up crying like the guy who rolled his Bronco.

an idiot can break anything
 
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Mtpisgah

Active member
We will be ordering them in the next month. I haven't finished the interior build yet. It rides better empty or with the Alu-cab than it ever did stock. After returning home from the install, the CAT scale weight with 39 gal of fuel in the tanks was 6160 pounds (2960 front & 3200 rear).

Dan - Thank you for sharing your travels over the years.

I have steel bumpers and an awning, fully fitted out with camping gear and two bikes I weigh in around 6900lbs. The allegedly HD 3” JKS coils are not sufficient for the weight so I have been running airbags. I have a set of HD Dobinsons coils in the garage now that should get installed at the end of this month and the bags will go away.
 

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mav204

Observer
I have steel bumpers and an awning, fully fitted out with camping gear and two bikes I weigh in around 6900lbs. The allegedly HD 3” JKS coils are not sufficient for the weight so I have been running airbags. I have a set of HD Dobinsons coils in the garage now that should get installed at the end of this month and the bags will go away.
great looking build, any way to get pictures with the camper all closed up? Im looking to get a JT but more sure if I want painted fenders and hard top
 

Mtpisgah

Active member
great looking build, any way to get pictures with the camper all closed up? Im looking to get a JT but more sure if I want painted fenders and hard top

I like the matching fenders and hard top. My wife’s JL is white with the non-painted fenders. I tried to get them painted but she would not let me.
 

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montechie

Active member
Between my '17 Tacoma OR and my '22 JTR I replaced it with, I feel the Tacoma suspension wouldn't settle as much under load, but the Pentastar+8-speed of the JTR isn't nearly as affected power and MPG-wise by a few hundred pounds as the Taco was. Especially combined with the Rubicon gearing. There's benefits to each and the Taco is certainly more composed on the highway, but I wouldn't go back to a Tacoma from my JTR. I'm packing the stock suspension, some typical mods (Jeep steel bumpers, winch+synthetic line, recovery gear) plus an OVRLND camper that's about 325lbs, which gave my about 1" front, and 1.5" of rear compression. I'll be adding a spacer in the rear to get back to a factory rake when I just have a static load.

@Bushmaster5K, with your extra load, how much lift did you get out of the AEV suspension over the Rubicon stock? Do you have any side shots with your 33s? I wouldn't mind correcting my "squish" but don't really want to upsize my 33s for awhile, if ever.
 

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billiebob

Well-known member
On GVWR..... The Dodge/Ram 2500 is rated to haul a lot more than the Dodge/Ram Powerwagon based on the 2500. Why? Because the Ram 2500 is rated for hauling over roads mostly but the PowerWagon is built for Rubicon territory and down rated to reflect those real world conditions.

Stick within the manufacturers ratings..... and use it as the manufacturer intended.... and all should be good. Altho most truck advertising is bordering on misleading the consumer.

My TJR is rated to tow 2000#..... The LJR, virtually identical in ALL components but with 10" more wheelbase is rated to tow 3500#.... Both are built to do the same thing. I have no idea who the engineer or marketing geek was who thought 10" of wheelbase would double the towing capability. Axles, engines, transmissions, entire drivelines, brakes, steering..... even frame section..... parts are identical and interchangeable.

In todays economy, gas prices, inflation etc..... I'm happy to build my overlanding around the backpacker, minimalist, light weight philosophy. The challenge should be how do I keep it light, not how do I carry more.

ps, I'd buy the Powerwagon over the Ram 2500 and be happy to build within the factory rated capacity..... same with the JT/JTR...
I have no issues with the 2000# limit on my TJR, my SquareBox fully fitted is under 1500#.
 
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montechie

Active member
My TJR is rated to tow 2000#..... The LJR, virtually identical in ALL components but with 10" more wheelbase is rated to tow 3500#.... Both are built to do the same thing. I have no idea who the engineer or marketing geek was who thought 10" of wheelbase would double the towing capability. Axles, engines, transmissions, entire drivelines, brakes, steering..... even frame section..... parts are identical and interchangeable.
Lol, and I wouldn't tow over 2000# with my LJR, much less towards the 3500.
 

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