theoverlandsuperduty - 2017 Ford F-250 SuperDuty XLT

#1
Hello Peoples! Just wanted to start a thread and introduce myself and my current rig! I purchased a new 2017 SuperDuty in March of this year (I have previously owned a 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2011). I absolutely love the SD platform and the incredible power of the 6.7 diesel.

I want to use this vehicle (not only as my daily) but as a vehicle to explore and get outside more with my son (age 7). I'll go ahead and document some photos I have of the rig and a few changes I have made. I'll also try to keep this thread active with any changes I make in the future.
 
#5
Here is one of the first pictures I took when I brought it home.

IMG_3278.jpg

I have made a few changes to date:

EXTERIOR:
- Deleted the "Chrome Package". This includes painting the mirror caps and door/tailgate handles. I also replaced the front chrome recovery hooks for factory black units.
- Removed the running boards and replaced them with Amp Research PowerSteps. This cleans up the side of the truck tremendously and tucks the steps closer to the body. One less thing to hopefully not drag/rub.
- Replaced the XLT grille for a factory Lariat grille (completely aesthetic).
- Swapped out the chrome 18" wheels for factory 20" wheels. Another cosmetic change just because I did not care for all the chrome.
- Added a Leer 100XR truck cap with pre-installed Thule rails. I plan (keyword) to mount a RTT (preferably the Gen 3 Alu-Cab unit.... because well its freakin sweet) directly to the rails.
- Also the bed received a BedRug Bedliner to match the carpet that came on the Leer Cap.
- Removed the stock "dual tip" tailpipe and replaced with a single 4" MBRP unit and 5" tip. Again... just cosmetic.. no change in sound/hp/emissions.
INTERIOR:
- WeatherTech Floor Liners for the front and rear. Absolutely love these.
- Covercraft Seat Covers for the front and rear. With the XLT having cloth seats, I decided to cover them up for protection. Opted for these instead of aftermarket leather.
- 5% Tint on all of the cab windows except windshield (because TEXAS). Still need to tint the windows on the cap.

Here is a shot of the vehicle after the few changes:

IMG_3530.jpg

I need to get the front end up and swap out the tires for some 37's. That is what I am working towards next. That should suffice till I can save up my pennies for a proper lift and wheel/tire package (hopefully a 4.5" kit from Icon or Carli). Then a RTT.... at least thats the plan! :wings:
 

Tex68w

Adventurer
#6
Nice start! Good to see another late model full-size build starting and a fellow Texan too! My 2017 F-250 goes in next Tuesday for a 4" Coil-Over kit and 37's, overlanding is the end-game for us as well. I'll be sure to to subscribe to your build thread and congrats on the nice rig!
 
#8
Nice start! Good to see another late model full-size build starting and a fellow Texan too! My 2017 F-250 goes in next Tuesday for a 4" Coil-Over kit and 37's, overlanding is the end-game for us as well. I'll be sure to to subscribe to your build thread and congrats on the nice rig!
Why are you going with a coilover for that low of a lift? You'll lose travel due to the spring being shorter.
 

Tex68w

Adventurer
#9
Why are you going with a coilover for that low of a lift? You'll lose travel due to the spring being shorter.
Not to hijack the OP's thread, but for a number of reasons. First of all they will provide a superior ride quality both on and off-road. Second, they offer a lot more adjustability and control over a standard slick body. They also allow me to adjust ride height, change out springs to adjust for changes in my load/setup, and they are rebuildable for years of use.
Sure, you could lose travel depending on how the springs are setup, but that's avoidable with a spring change. They do require more maintenance than a standard slick body, but in the long run they will allow for better tuning/adjustability and overall performance.
 
#10


The only point I will concur on is the adjust-ability of height, but that can be also attained by using OUO adjustable coil levelers. There is no way a 6" shorter spring can yield the same amount of travel. A quality shock (King, Fox, RadFlo) can be rebuilt. If you need to swap spring, it's much easier to loosen the shock, take pressure off the coil and pop it out and the new one in and reinstall the shock.

I wouldn't look into coilovers until approaching 10" of lift. Using them for less lift is purely a cosmetic upgrade. Same goes for parallel links (marketed as 4 link, but actually 5 link) as they have no improved ride quality over a set of OUO ALAs, and the parallel link arms pronounce brake dive which also pronounces body roll.
 
#11
Well you're entitled to opinion, but I respectfully disagree. This isn't my first rodeo with coilovers, I've run them on multiple track and street cars, two Jeeps and two Toyotas. I agree in regards to your point on the 4-link, but that's also debatable on a big truck if you employ the use of traction/ladder bars. Let's be honest, we aren't looking for earth shattering travel and high speed performance here on a full-size HD truck. I am looking for adjustability in my load and ride height and quality of ride both on and off-road, the coil-over is unmatched in both of those departments. I don't care about being able to swap a fixed spring out on a whim, and the quality of slick body has not held up in my applications in the past, most notably shocks from Icon, they were being rebuilt/recharged every 6 months. When these need attention it'll be time to rebuild them and do a shake down on the entire chassis making the work/effort part of a general overhaul for the entire rig. The coilover kit I am using will still use a slick body in conjunction with the single rate primary spring coilover, these are not dual rate or triple rate spring systems.




The only point I will concur on is the adjust-ability of height, but that can be also attained by using OUO adjustable coil levelers. There is no way a 6" shorter spring can yield the same amount of travel. A quality shock (King, Fox, RadFlo) can be rebuilt. If you need to swap spring, it's much easier to loosen the shock, take pressure off the coil and pop it out and the new one in and reinstall the shock.

I wouldn't look into coilovers until approaching 10" of lift. Using them for less lift is purely a cosmetic upgrade. Same goes for parallel links (marketed as 4 link, but actually 5 link) as they have no improved ride quality over a set of OUO ALAs, and the parallel link arms pronounce brake dive which also pronounces body roll.
 
#12
Ok boys and ladies... just a small update and install over this weekend. Ended up installing a NOCO GCP1 AC Port Plug into the driver side of my Leer 100XR. It was a clean and easy solution to introduce power into the shell. Took about an hour (after I psyched myself up into cutting a two inch hole in my $2G topper :eek:)

Check it out and let me know what you think.

View attachment 430722
 
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