Trailer door locks

[UK4X4]

Q I've been searching for a suitable locking solution for my trailer doors,
with the front box etc there will be 6 in total.

The doors are resessed to stop prying, the door skin is riveted on the inside
The frame is 1' box section.

the hinges are externally welded to the door and internally screwed to the frame, for now, they'll probably end up welded..

So if i use a standard type slam latch it will take up 2 inches of internal space, and not supply much compression, the comression T locks I just got a sample of would give me 3" lost internal space

I don't want external hasps and dangly locks, think rattle and prying target

the round hocky puck and security hasps are nice but too big.


I'm not keen on the little cam latches.....

So what do you think of these.........with standard electric actuation, and emergency cable access......

Nothing on the outside, no key holes, no handles...positive locking and not a bad price.....

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HFM%2DBCLG&N=700+322941+115&autoview=sku

Obviously electrical failure is an issue, but if i arrange things nicely I can put a key locked emergency cable actuation handle inside a gas type little door,
then crawl inside the main box to reach all the other manual releases.

Imagine arriving at camp and pressing your remote and have all the hatches open..........pretty neat..

 

[UK4X4]

 

[Rezarf <><]

I went through this as well. I like the cool factor of the bear claw latches, but the possibility of electrical failure in back country leaves me a little weirded out.

I am going with a paddle latch, with adjustable strikers, for me it was the best compromise. I got a deal on some RV quality door latches with locks and they are really nice. Scored 3 pair on ebay for just over 12 bucks!

If you think about making the strikers strong and adjustable your options become wide open.

Just a thought, man your trailer is looking great!

Rezarf <><

 

[ExpoMike]

A buddy of mine just told me about a company for latches and such.

Check it out,they might have what you are looking for.

http://www.southco.com/

 

[UK4X4]

funnily enough I have a sample from them here on my desk, its a T handle compressive one.

Nice unit good quality but would be 3" deep into the cabinets,

I asked for 3 diferent latchs to see which ones worked best and they sent me just the one......

So I ordered one of the bear latchs from summit and I'll see how they fit, my issue is because I'm panelling from the inside rather than outside...on the doors.

If it works it will have electric and maunal release......or at least one will.......the others I can release from inside...

 

[Rezarf <><]

If it works it will have electric and maunal release......or at least one will.......the others I can release from inside...

if you build in a solid redundant opening system, I think they would ROCK!

I say go for it, then let me copy them. :26_7_2:

 

[UK4X4]

To be copied only means you've done something well...so feel free......

after all I borrowed a few ideas from your build too....

any Q's just post up...

Well after not too much buggering around...door No 1 is finished with the rotary catch.........................

and a few mock up pics of the diamond plate...please remember.....I'm painting the alu panels too...so its not a hummer bling trailer...

The catch was actually pretty easy to fit, and the openning force of the lock is quite small.

I'm not sure if they'll fit yet on the smaller doors as the top bars on the side panels are only 1", whereas the rear door has a 2" reveal at the top.

The pin will probably be cut down as only 3/8" of it actuall actuates the lock
and I'll be cleaning up the pin mount too.

So i have a little more checking and neatening up the welding at the catch mount.

Doing the reveals or sealing surfaces on these recessed doors has added conciderable time to my build, in comparison to simpler exterior mount doors.

Just fiddly welding in little 1/2 " angle and 1/8" flats...........It would have been a lot easier if I'd have made the frame out of 2x2 as well which would have made it easier...but I was worried about the weight.

right now even with the doors I can still lift the whole thing pretty easily.

 

[Rezarf <><]

Bump for an update... :victory:

 

[UK4X4]

yea yea hang on,

I'm still at work..........................:jumping:

Oh and I sussed a good system for emergency release too.............

not fitted but in my head.....

 

[UK4X4]

OK here you go,

front box will open to lhs of photo, with drawer slides and the fridge,

Kitchen side door

kitchen and rear dropped down

seals, pain in the rear and fiddly, but very happy with results, need the joins filling

rear door up and closed......no catchs, locks, pry points, screws or bolts.......
neat finish but a lot of work.

 

[Rezarf <><]

Great job man!

WoW! that is coming along great. I love the way you designed your doors man, they look killer. I love the fact there aren't any exterior latches, can you say dust free!

Thanks for posting up that came out great! :clapsmile

Did you rivet the sheet on? What are you going to use to seal up the joints and seams? Got a specifc product in mind? I am leaning towards some of 3M and Sikaflex's stuff.

Looks killer man,

Drew

 

[IZZYDUSIT]

great looking trailer project- can't wait to see it done!!
keep the posts coming!!

 

[UK4X4]

3/16" Pop rivets and 3M industrial adhesive similar to no more nails......

with only small panels i won't need anything expensive like silkaflex.

the diference in expansion between steel and alu over 36-44 " is nothing
worth discussing.

I don't have 8ft long joins..

Then they'l have an acrylic seam sealer to smooth the join after the glue dry's
acrylic is paintable.

The seams of the door reveals i'll probably use body filler as its easy to use and sets hard.

 

[Gregny]

Its looking sweet ........ Your doing an awesome job :luxhello:

 

[Rezarf <><]

3/16" Pop rivets and 3M industrial adhesive similar to no more nails......

with only small panels i won't need anything expensive like silkaflex.

the diference in expansion between steel and alu over 36-44 " is nothing
worth discussing.

I don't have 8ft long joins..

Then they'l have an acrylic seam sealer to smooth the join after the glue dry's
acrylic is paintable.

The seams of the door reveals i'll probably use body filler as its easy to use and sets hard.

And it looks like you primed your surfaces first?

Came out great, thanks for the info.

Drew