True Trac vs Open Diff

Mr_Miyagisan

Adventurer
I have a trutrac in my rear axle on the XJ. Don't notice it on the roads other than snow, which is helpful. Its great off road, did 6500mi trip including lot of trails it was much better than open. Worth the money.
 

greengreer

Adventurer
Just picked up a true trac for my pickup. I haven't got it in yet but one of the biggest reasons I chose a truetrac over other options was snow performance. The g80 "gov lock"in my chevy was terrible on icy roads. The clutch style traclok in my one ton is ok on snow but not enough for super greasy mud.I'm hoping the truetrac will be more than liveable in snow and ice and a huge improvement over the open diff I have currently.
 

gwittman

Adventurer
My Ranger came from the factory with a Torsen rear differential. It is basically the same as a Truetrac. I liked it so well that I eventually had one installed in the front. I have 228K miles on the rear one so my long term experience can tell you they work very well. The only thing on pavement that is different from an open axle is when you are accelerating around a sharp corner. You can easily make the inside tire screech if you step on the accelerator pedal a little to much. There are no control issues just a little screech.
I have a 69 Fairlane Cobra with a 428CJ engine and recently installed a Truetrac on it. It has the same symptoms as the Torsen only I have to be even more careful accelerating around a sharp corner because of the torque monster engine. The Truetrac has given that car so much better traction in a straight line.
As to how they work in the snow, any proper working LSD takes some getting used to in slippery conditions (even in the rain). An open axle will break one tire loose and the other will keep you going straight. With a properly working LSD, both tires will break loose if you give it too much accelerator pedal and you can easily swap ends. Once you learn how to modulate the accelerator pedal, they work very well because both tires drive and you have more traction.
The Truetrac and Torsen are a smooth operating as an open axle. You don't get the quirky action that you can get out of an automatic locker.
 

Scoutn79

Adventurer
I have a True-Trac in my Mustang. Street manners are perfect, you never know it's there until you need it. The locking and unlocking is a Detroit locker issue from tires of different rolling diameters or turning a corner and not being on the gas some. LSD won't do that.

Darrell
 

2180miles

Endurance Adventuring
I had a Tru-trac in my HP30 for many years. It performed very well, and there was very very little noticeable effect on normal town driving, and none on highways.

Mine was a surprise, I bought the axle on Craigslist and didn't realize until my first diff fluid change that it actually had the Tru-Trac in it!
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
I have Tru-tracs in both ends of my 96 Dodge 1500 4x4. You never know they're there on pavement, but it is a beast in the snow. The factory front axle is a two-piece with a CAD that has essentially been converted to a one-piece axle.

I was so impressed with them, that when we built my buddy's 98 Jeep GC, we put one in each end (rear had a custom Dana 44). Again; invisible on pavement.

My Jeep TJ has a Detroit locker in the rear, and an Aussie in the front. You can feel the Detroit when it engages and disengages going around corners, but you get none of that with the Tru-tracs.

Cover.1.jpgYukon Keith and Jeep.1.jpg
 

sandyvan

New member
Does anyone have experience running Tru-tracs in sand or mixed sand conditions? I feel the Tru-tracs are my best option but since this is a big part of my off-road driving I want to be sure there are no issues and I'm having a hard time finding user experiences in sand. I've seen a few comments related to full lockers wanting to just go straight in sand which makes me nervous but since Tru-tracs aren't full lockers maybe they are the better option? Thanks in advance.
 

gwittman

Adventurer
I have run Torsens (same operation as True Trac) in all types of surfaces off-road, including sand. They work very well. One thing that reminds me I have the Torsen in the front when in 4WD, is the steering wheel wants to center itself with more force than you experience with an open differential. It does not take much force to keep it turning and the tires do not try to go straight when turning, but I do need to apply a little more muscle to the steering wheel. I noticed this more in Mexico on roads/trials that that had a high crown in the center. Driving on that angle required turning into the raised direction a little, after many miles of this I began to notice the strain a little. Taking it out of 4WD would eliminate this minor problem but I like to be in 4WD anytime I am in the dirt because I feel in more control.
 

chasespeed

Explorer
Trutrac in the front for me.... from New England winters, and the beaches of Texas, and everywhere in between.... it will always be an option for me.
Have an autolocker in the rear, and even my wife is comfortable with it.... the trutrac is all but invisible.
Only time I "notice", is some tire scrubbing on tight turns in parking lots.....

Chase

Sent from my SM-T827V using Tapatalk
 

Happy Joe

Apprentice Geezer
The first serious mod I do (even to Daily Drivers) is ARB air lockers and gears;
Since I couldn't get a front ARB for the Explorer (DD) I went with a Torsen front limited slip (similar to the Eaton tru trac)... as noted; hard to tell that its there on road... used by Ford in the Ranger FX4 Level II 2003-2009 and a number of OEMs world wide.
...from now on I will only use ARBs OR a Torsen style (gear type limited slip) carrier in the Daily Drivers... only ARBs in the off road vehicles.
 
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Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
SandyVan,
On sand? Here's a video from a recent trip to the Anza Borrego Desert with my 10K pound XTC (extreme truck camper) on a second generation Dodge Cummins platform. This is a sand hill known as the Diablo Drop Off, a 300 foot blow sand hill. Near the top are some deep moguls which test the traction alternating side to side. Some stats: tire pressure 20 pounds. 4th gear/low range start dropping to 2nd gear/low range to ooze through the moguls. Click this link for vid:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bfj5y93wsd7vfkw/jefe does sand hill at dry wash of the devil Anza.m4v?dl=0
Even with a tire off the ground I had no slippage. I have a 35 spline Dana 60 (with mostly Dana 70 parts) True Trac in front and 35 spline Dana 80 True Trac in the rear. Very transparent. With hubs free, no difference in the steering. Very stable and forgiving on ice and snow. I've had most of the LSD's and full Lockers made, and this one is for me the most user friendly on any surface. I like it better for this application. Better than my ARB's; Detroit full locker; Power Lok; Trash Loc; lunch box locker; Lock Rite. The only ones I've not had are: Gov-Lok and OX Locker. With the True Tracs you just drive. and enjoy the ride.

jefe
P.S. I have the True Trac also in my '99 XJ's front Dana 30 and the factory Trash Lok in the rear D-35 c-clip. Simply the best snow car ever of the 13 4WD's I've owned.
 
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Tbacus

New member
I run Trutracs front and rear in a 1996 Disco1. When I first put them in I noticed the centering others have described here, but within a few weeks I learn to compensate and don’t notice. My wife occasionally drives the truck and never noticed it. I drive the truck in all kinds of conditions including deep sand and have never had any trouble. Last week I dropped a rear wheel off into a soft muddy ditch and never got and spin as I powered out. I think they are a great option
 

WSS

Rock Stacker
Is there a reason why a switchable locker is not on your list?

I did read your original post and understand this may be unwanted info.

If you were to break a rear driveline or break a yoke, etc.., a front locker would still give you two wheels to the ground. And you would not feel anything until the switch is flipped. I've been in that situation two times, one with a air locker and one without. The time without was a hitched ride out with broken driveshaft and leaving my rig overnight. The second was a 1/2" wrench unbolting the residual and finishing the trail with front ARB engaged.

I carry spare front and rear DL's now.

WSS
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
WSS, he drives a 2WD Van. With driveability problems of full lockers, i'd still put money on a True Trac. Another reason is cost. True Trac is at most half the price of an ARB. No compressor, tubing, switches, complicated install, or electrical circuits. I had woes with my front and rear ARB's on my rock crawler. Thick dust, like in the desert was a switch killer. BTDT. Passing weeds, rocks or floatsam would wreak havoc with the air tubing. jefe

'82 CJ-8, NP435, Dana 300/4:1, 4.88 gears, ARB's, Dana 44/Chromoly, Dana 60 Mosiers, 37 inch tires. 130:1 final drive in lo/lo. 142:1 in lo/reverse.
 
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