Unimog Camper under construction

Very nice to see You Ian enjoying ....jeje the vídeos You made whit the dron are amazing , Im thinking to start to use one.
The place You show on the lake is nice , my wife loves kayaks Also...we do some times whit Our sevilor, but I need to make some long distance to find a good lake, north of Spain ...
 
Hi guys.

Are you getting as far as the Adelaide Hills/Barossa? Cheers.
We are heading down to a place called No, 2 Rocks - Near Lake Bonny over Easter, about halfway to Adelaide only. If you feel like a trip, let me know, our campsite is big enough for two trucks.



Very nice to see You Ian enjoying ....jeje the vídeos You made whit the dron are amazing , Im thinking to start to use one.
The place You show on the lake is nice , my wife loves kayaks Also...we do some times whit Our sevilor, but I need to make some long distance to find a good lake, north of Spain ...

It is a long river, around 2500km long. It is was our first time up there, but it was a great place, so we will be going back there.
 
Very nice video, thanks for share It, I can Imagine your engine was wiht the Air compresor on the block as a Std no? Im now on the point to rebuild my one, mine is a Wabco whit belt on front of the engine, my question is , ir buy a complete staff to fit a New block compresor? Or rebuild my one, some advantage whit the block locación?
 
The four bolt block compressor flows about as much as the air cooler belt compressor, but they are only 8 bar units. Both motors I had have engine block compressors, and I had a spare belt driven one, but decided not to fit it, went with two ARB twin motor air compressors as back-up instead, as I could use them without having to run the engine. They pull about 50A each,but put out about twice the airflow of the normal compressor. I decided to increase the air volume to almost double the OEM amount, so needed a booster so I did not have to wait to long to get the system up to pressure. The rules here say you have to be able to drive off within 5 minutes of starting with no air in the tanks. I can easily do it with the electric compressors switched on. They cut out a 7.0 bar, so won't run unless the air get really low, and I normally switch them off once the system is up to pressure. It also means I can release the park brakes without having to start the truck.

I would rebuild your old one, as you have an 18 Bar system, otherwise you have to make a lot of changes and increase the air volume as well.
 
The four bolt block compressor flows about as much as the air cooler belt compressor, but they are only 8 bar units. Both motors I had have engine block compressors, and I had a spare belt driven one, but decided not to fit it, went with two ARB twin motor air compressors as back-up instead, as I could use them without having to run the engine. They pull about 50A each,but put out about twice the airflow of the normal compressor. I decided to increase the air volume to almost double the OEM amount, so needed a booster so I did not have to wait to long to get the system up to pressure. The rules here say you have to be able to drive off within 5 minutes of starting with no air in the tanks. I can easily do it with the electric compressors switched on. They cut out a 7.0 bar, so won't run unless the air get really low, and I normally switch them off once the system is up to pressure. It also means I can release the park brakes without having to start the truck.

I would rebuild you old one, as you have an 18 Bar system, otherwise you have to make a lot of changes and increase the air volume as well.
 
Ok, nice to know It, 8 is not enought for my Air valvles I Think, so I Will rebuild my one, the nice Think was to keep away the belt....is much better the Direct conection on cam shaft
 
It's great to see more of your recent travels Iain, since your move down to Melbourne.

I've watched the uTube videos and have Sub'd.

Now that you guys have dealt with a Melbourne winter, your ready for a Tasmaina trip in between contracts.

Keep up the videos, i enjoy seeing the Mog in action

Cheers,

Bryn
 
Decided to fit a new gauge to monitor the portal temperatures. Took quite a bit of wiring and securing all the sensors, but it seems pretty good. It can trigger alarms and relays, but for the moment I'll just use it as a gauge.




I used epoxy glue to stick on the sensors on each of the portals, they should be OK, they are pretty secure. If the epoxy doesn't hold, I'll try Sikaflex.


 
Very nice Ian, did You test on hiway? Just to know a different reference, because I suppose my front bearings are on the limit, looking my temps, so wath I understand You paste the probes to the hub case, I allready see Big diference betwen the internal parte of the hub , and the center just on the rim, there is the Max temp, this is why Im planing to monitor the oil , changing the oil Bolt, because by the small oil capacity I can imagine no all the hub is at the same temp, In my case I found one of theme at 118c degres the center hub , bolted on the main gearing and the hub case just at 44c degres, so still not clear for me, thank You so much for the info
 
Nice temp. gauge ;), and expensive....

I´m in the process of doing a Ardunio version of this, it will also be able to measure voltage and other stuff, display is a 1.3" OLED from China.
All parts are very cheap... If any interest I´ll post a few pics and more. Temperature sensors will be 18b20.
 
I wanted to do an Ardunio version as well, but then worked out the cost of getting all the things necessary (over $250 over here for all the gear) , learning to program it, etc etc, and decided this would work out easier - I have a load of other things to do :) Eventual plan is to build my own system with a whole load more sensors etc, but this worked out OK in the meantime :) I will start once we are on the road, give me something to do when we are sitting around on a beach somewhere :)
 
Okay I get it, - I have ordered things directly from china via ebay, shipping is cost free worldwide, the OLED was 4 EUR, the temperature sensors was 3 EUR for 5 pcs, and a Ardunio Pro mini is 2 EUR.
So around 10 EUR for parts shipped worldwide. And programming is not to bad, things can be found fairly easy online. I can post my code and parts list here later if you want some hints :) I might ad a SD-card for logging data purposes. I also figures out how to have a cycle of different displays on the OLED.

The Blue Sea temperature display alone is 226 EUR here in Denmark, and on top comes tax and vat :(