warn m8000 rebuild

justinhw

Adventurer
Hey Expo,
Haven't been on for years, glad to be posting again.

Got myself a well-used/abused Warn m8000. I want to re-hab it and put it to use on my car hauler. Need some advice on how to go about it.





It has the contactor box instead of the old school solenoids ,so I think it is somewhat newer? there is no date code on it.

The steel cable is corroded and frayed in many places, I pulled it out and am planning to replace it with steel again.






I was told that the motor was replaced but it didn't work. Not exactly sure what is wrong but I have the service manual and will be doing some disassembly.

The main thing is that the controller connector is corroded





Pins are missing, stuck, and damaged. If the contactor box works, I don't want to spend $170 on another box and then another $70 on another controller just because the connection is kaput. Any advice what to do here?
 

craig333

Expedition Leader
Parts are available. I have a 6000 I need to tear into. I put a new cable on and my brother who was helping me goes, "your winch is moving up and down". I"m betting you can clean up those pins.
 

Toyaddict

Member
It wasn't for the same reason but I replaced the end on my controller / bumper with a 4 pin trailer connector. I can't tell how many pins you actually need, i was thinking the warn controller breaks the hot as well as the ground to the solenoid so you may be able to ground the solenoid and use less pins.
 
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NatersXJ6

Explorer
I have nothing of value to add to this discussion, yet I feel compelled to ask:

Did you somehow convince her that putting that thing on the carpet was “better” than on the hardwood floor?

I would be in trouble if I did something like that, and I’m a guy that rebuilds pistons and cranks on the kitchen table (/workbench)!

🤫 🤗
 

Warn Industries

Supporting Vendor
I'd bet you can clean up the pins, too. This is a contactor-equipped model so it's no older than 2013 or 2014, which is when we switched from solenoids on the M8.

I'd sand down the drum a bit and clean it up.

If you need anything, feel free to call our customer service team at 800-543-9276 and we can often point you in the right direction.

- Andy
 

Simons

Adventurer
I have nothing of value to add to this discussion, yet I feel compelled to ask:

Did you somehow convince her that putting that thing on the carpet was “better” than on the hardwood floor?

I would be in trouble if I did something like that, and I’m a guy that rebuilds pistons and cranks on the kitchen table (/workbench)!

Lol! Ohh man, so true


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Dirt Rider

Active member
Rebuilt my 8274 which was ancient, and they still had parts. These are not complicated, just tear it down and look for what needs replacing.
 

Westy

Adventurer
Given the amount of corrosion on the drum, I would pull off the motor and planetary gear ends from the drum. Check for any water or corrosion and re-grease it all and seal it back up. It will work like new again after you go through it. Montana Jacks is a good source for replacement Warn parts, they will have them on the self most likely too. Not sure if the sockets are a separate piece or not on those new style boxes but they were on older units so if that's the case you can replace that part.
Check your local classifieds too for the cable, good chance you'll find a nice one for fair price locally.
 

DaveInDenver

Expedition Leader
I just rebuilt my XD9000 a couple of years ago. I ended up needing to replace the two tie bars across the drum since they were corroded pretty badly (one sheared during disassembly) and few fasteners but mostly it was just clean up, new seals and grease.

The rebuild document (Warn Service Manual for Mid-Frame Winches, Rev A) called for Aeroshell #17 grease. This seems to have been discontinued replaced with 33MS and that was rebranded Aeroshell #64.

Anywho, I got a tube of it from Amazon and would highly suggest the stuff. It's much more tacky and viscous than any grease I've seen for automotive or marine use. It's basically a slippery glue and I have no doubt it will stay in place when it's hot.


Also next time I tear it apart instead of painting the drum I'm thinking about having it powder coated instead.
 

justinhw

Adventurer
Well, I guess I will have to post more carpet pictures ;P

So I called Warn, they didn't have an option to replace just the pins (a few were worn away, not just dirty). Option was to buy a $70-ish remote and a $30-ish replacement plug. I didn't want to spend that.

So I ended up using a fender washer and a #8 sheet metal screw to pull the socket out of the remote plug-thing. I cut and matched the wires to some plugs I had for small electronics. It's not waterproof, but this winch is destined for my car hauler so will be covered up if not used. Honestly I probably could have just hardwired it without the plug because I don't even really need to remove the remote from it.












Next step is to connect it back up and see if it works. I'll go through the gearbox and clean up the drum after. I'm looking at warn replacement cables - 5/16" by 100ft - does that sound typical? It's $100 on amazon which doesn't seem too bad. Any recommendations for hooks on the end? I like how these ones are with the big safety hook but don't know where to get them.
 

justinhw

Adventurer
I just rebuilt my XD9000 a couple of years ago. I ended up needing to replace the two tie bars across the drum since they were corroded pretty badly (one sheared during disassembly) and few fasteners but mostly it was just clean up, new seals and grease.

The rebuild document (Warn Service Manual for Mid-Frame Winches, Rev A) called for Aeroshell #17 grease. This seems to have been discontinued replaced with 33MS and that was rebranded Aeroshell #64.

Anywho, I got a tube of it from Amazon and would highly suggest the stuff. It's much more tacky and viscous than any grease I've seen for automotive or marine use. It's basically a slippery glue and I have no doubt it will stay in place when it's hot.


Also next time I tear it apart instead of painting the drum I'm thinking about having it powder coated instead.
Thanks for the tip i will get some of the aeroshell 64
 

justinhw

Adventurer
oh, did you end up replacing the brake? if the pads look OK is it good to go? or are there springs or something inside that wear out?
 

DaveInDenver

Expedition Leader
I didn't touch the brake. On the M8000 & XD9000 winches AFAIK it's not rebuilt but rather a complete assembly you remove and replace if you have to. It lives down in the drum and I didn't want to risk having it come apart and throw springs all over my garage.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
For a car hauler, I wouldn’t put more cable than 2x deck length or maybe 2x plus 10’.

Less cable is better for pull, cost, etc.

You should be able to get various hooks and safety hooks at any wire rope supplier.
 
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