Water pump

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
Thinking about installing a 1gpm surflow pump for maybe a quick shower using a spray nozzle from say a kitchen sink that one would use for rinsing off dishes. Put on a SS braided hose on the nozzle with a quick disconnect like from a compressor air fitting. And if need be do the same for the sink for water ect. The pump will have it's own off/on switch and will be a water on demand type pump. For hot water I can always use the solar shower and connect the tube from the bag to the inlet of the pump. This way you do not have to hunt for something to hang the bag on. I do have a 19 gal tank on my horizon so I do have a water source.Ideas comments let em fly.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
Sounds like a great idea. Personally, it's pretty much what I'll be doing, but I'll have two taps. One for the sink, and one for a sprayer. As for hot water, that's still up in the air for me...

-
 

socaljeeper

Adventurer
Thats pretty much what i did with my trailer. I used 2.8 gpm Shurflo pump wired to a switch. I have a quick, easy to get to, pull out faucet. I also put a coiled pressure hose and mounted a quick disconnect to it. When I use the sink, I just run a water line to the disconnect and tap into that water source. Seems to work ok. The only problem I have had so far is the disconnect fitting. They seems to be a little hard to use over time, mounted outside. I am on my second one, and it is starting to become hard to use. The pressure on my 2.8 gpm pump seems to be adequate, so why not use that instead of a 1.0 gpm. The cost is not a big difference.
 

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
Well I mounter the pump between the fuel can and nose box and put in a waterproof switch. I used a 10ft ss braided line for the hose and a kitchen sprayer for the shower head. I used a compressor quick disconnect and mounted it on the frame just below the pump. System works great,as for hot water my solar shower will supply that just remove the little shower head and put the hose on the input of the pump. Will do pictures today if I get the chance. My next project is a ss sink mybe with a faucet from a T line not sure.
 

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
Here are a couple. And I know I have to paint the disconnect mount.
 

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REasley

Adventurer
Clean installation. just a couple of suggestions. You might want to keep a capped plug in the quick coupling to keep out dirt when traveling and be careful to keep hose tension off of the molded outlet barb on the pump. These SLV series pumps have problems with the barb snapping off. If it does break, you can easily switch out the pump to one with a threaded fitting. The pump mount is an industry standard pattern
 

Yudda

Adventurer
Well I mounter the pump between the fuel can and nose box and put in a waterproof switch. I used a 10ft ss braided line for the hose and a kitchen sprayer for the shower head. I used a compressor quick disconnect and mounted it on the frame just below the pump. System works great,as for hot water my solar shower will supply that just remove the little shower head and put the hose on the input of the pump. Will do pictures today if I get the chance. My next project is a ss sink mybe with a faucet from a T line not sure.

Wow...great install ....I found a local manufacturer that makes a SS baffled water tank for my defender, he uses a 1 gpm pump but i never thought of the quick disconnect hose fittings.

Using a solar shower bag as well is brilliant.

Thanks for the inspiration,

Rob
 
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Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
Clean installation. just a couple of suggestions. You might want to keep a capped plug in the quick coupling to keep out dirt when traveling and be careful to keep hose tension off of the molded outlet barb on the pump. These SLV series pumps have problems with the barb snapping off. If it does break, you can easily switch out the pump to one with a threaded fitting. The pump mount is an industry standard pattern
Good idea on the cap I think a old plastic canister might fit the bill. As far as the hose tension on the barb it should be fine, I was also concerned about it also.It has plenty of play. Thanks for the feedback and kind words.
 

REasley

Adventurer
If you start having problems with dirt getting inside the sleeve and jamming movement on the coupling, try switching to a high pressure washer coupling. It will give the same function, but will work better dirty. The drawback will be having to put a small ball valve before thecoupling to shut the flow off. Two additional good points; you won't get wet when connecting or disconnecting and it's available in stainless steel.
 

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
I do have a ball valve mounted on the tank, it is left off in case the pump switch gets hit by a branch and turns on by accident do not think that would happen but you never know. I do like the SS idea I could had gone that route.
 

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Errant

Explorer
If you start having problems with dirt getting inside the sleeve and jamming movement on the coupling, try switching to a high pressure washer coupling. It will give the same function, but will work better dirty. The drawback will be having to put a small ball valve before thecoupling to shut the flow off. Two additional good points; you won't get wet when connecting or disconnecting and it's available in stainless steel.

I'm getting ready to do a tank install and am curious about this. What's different about these that makes them work better dirty?
 

REasley

Adventurer
I'm getting ready to do a tank install and am curious about this. What's different about these that makes them work better dirty?

Both the air coupling and the pressure washer coupling work in the same way. That is, a sleeve is pulled back allowing steel balls to relax their grip on the male plug. The sleeve on the air coupling is built with very little clearance between the sleeve and the body of the coupler. It does not take much dirt to jam the sleeve open or closed. The pressure washer coupling has a recessed land that the sleeve slides over allowing it to pass over an accumulation of debris.

One additional feature the pressure washer coupling affords is the number of steel balls that hold the male plug firmly in the coupling. Typically an air coupling has either 3 or 4 balls (depending on cost), where the pressure washer coupling will have 8 balls doing the same job.
 

Errant

Explorer
Thanks for the response! Are either valved (not sure if that's the correct term). What I'm wondering, is if either one will stop the flow of water if not coupled to it's mate, or do all QC fitting's require a valve before them.
 

Token

Explorer
Think air compressor hoses.. You always put the female coupling on the compressor side.. It keeps the air in the tank by having am internal shutoff valve when the male end isn't plugged into it..

Well at least it's supposed to, I've been having a lot of trouble with my compressor lately and am on my second fitting.. Might be a safe thing to have a shut off valve on the line in front of any fittings in case they start leaking on the trail.
 

REasley

Adventurer
As Token noted, the air compressor coupling has a built in shut-off. The pressure washer coupling does not. You can cheaply and easily add a miniature ball valve.
valve.jpg
 

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