THEPATRIOT
New member
I'm considering a Cherokee for DD/expedition duty.It'll be an older one(1990's)with an I6.What years are better,and what to avoid?Cherokee/Grand Cherokee???Any help/advice would be great.Thanks
What Jeep Cherokee???
- Thread starter THEPATRIOT
- Start date
AFSOC
Explorer
Here's my opinion on the subject, get a late model Cherokee, 1997-2001. They can be had very inexpensively. The late models have a more modern appearing interior, steel hatch, 29 spline Chryco 8.25 dif and better (I use the term loosely) brakes. The 97-99s had a high pinion axle up front. The 99s are said to have the best flowing manifolds. Classic styling, long living 4.0l, adequate road performance, excellent off-road performance, unmatched aftermarket support, very inexpensive parts and accessories, all kinds of them in any auto recycler for parts picking, short comings are well documented and aftermarket solutions are well developed. Arguably the best of breed is the 1999. There is one mans opinion, good luck with your decision.
Backwoods Rambler
Explorer
:iagree: But I got a '98 because of the ones I test drove, this one was far and away the best. I guess what I'm saying is that; Yes, the '99 is probably the best, but in my opinion, any '97 - '99 is a winner and the '00 & '01 are good runner-ups (runner-up due to the low pinion front axle)
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wADVr
Adventurer
1999 is the best year IMO. you get a high pinion front axle as stated above, is the 1st year of the higher flowing intake and the last year of the higher flowing not prone to cracking head. As also stated above you get the better 29 spline cryc 8.25 rear end if ABS is NOT an option, otherwise you get the same old weak D35. Also in comparison to the older XJs I have owned 1990, 1994, 1996 the 1999 has far less crap under the hood and under the dash as far as wiring, vacuum lines etc.
I am not a fan of the Grand Cherokee due to their reliability issues. but they are more comfortable and a bit more roomy.
I am not a fan of the Grand Cherokee due to their reliability issues. but they are more comfortable and a bit more roomy.
BKCowGod
Automotive ADHD is fun!
First choice would be '80, 'cause then you're a real MAN!
Then I concur with everybody else in the known universe. The price difference between early and late Jeeps is so small that there's no strong reason to stay early (unless you hate OBD2).
On the Cherk vs. Grand Cherk - both are reliable and comfortable. The Cherokee will be squeaky and more utilitarian, but the Grand will have many more things to break. I got sick of having to readjust my mirrors every time I unlocked the doors (common electrical glitch) that I eventually sold my Grand. It's also really rare to find a 4.0 GC.
Then I concur with everybody else in the known universe. The price difference between early and late Jeeps is so small that there's no strong reason to stay early (unless you hate OBD2).
On the Cherk vs. Grand Cherk - both are reliable and comfortable. The Cherokee will be squeaky and more utilitarian, but the Grand will have many more things to break. I got sick of having to readjust my mirrors every time I unlocked the doors (common electrical glitch) that I eventually sold my Grand. It's also really rare to find a 4.0 GC.
zjsheller
Observer
Reliability issues? My ZJ has 265,000 original miles on the original 4.0l, original tranny, etc. Ive had to replace the rear end (my fault) but nothing else even leaks fluid. If you go for a Grand, avoid the V8's. They are all full time 4x4 and have problems with trannys.
Good luck.
4Rescue
Expedition Leader
Of all my Cherokee's, the 99 Was flat out awesome... None of the regualr issues I had with all the others, newer gen interior, good multi-mode T-cases, Hi-Pinion axles... Best of the breed right there IMO...
But honestly??? I'd look for the one that Says "Toyota 4Runner" on it
You'll thank me if you do. It's just a whole different, whole lot more reliable beast. a 97 4Runner 3.4v6 5spd will transform into one HELL of a trail rig should you want that, and will certainly go down the road with better milage and ride. Sure it doesn't have a SFA, but the Jeep has a D30 so it's not much better in terms of strength over the Toyota IFS... YOu have to lift Lift LIFT the Jeep to get 33's underneath her, not so much with the Yota, something to consider.
That's my .02 and I'm sticking to it.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
But honestly??? I'd look for the one that Says "Toyota 4Runner" on it
You'll thank me if you do. It's just a whole different, whole lot more reliable beast. a 97 4Runner 3.4v6 5spd will transform into one HELL of a trail rig should you want that, and will certainly go down the road with better milage and ride. Sure it doesn't have a SFA, but the Jeep has a D30 so it's not much better in terms of strength over the Toyota IFS... YOu have to lift Lift LIFT the Jeep to get 33's underneath her, not so much with the Yota, something to consider.That's my .02 and I'm sticking to it.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
I see your from CT, buy something from a non salt state..XJ's are notorious for floor/rocker rust.
But honestly??? I'd look for the one that Says "Toyota 4Runner" on it
That's my .02 and I'm sticking to it.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
I beg to differ...A HP dana 30 is not a weak link in the XJ. They can support 35's locked and Ive seen 37's successfully run.
The difference in gas mileage is negligible also. I got 16 mpg towing a Uhaul trailer on the interstate, and I get 18 mpg otherwise on 31's and no regear.
As for 99 vs all the other late models, I dont know if I would buy a worse shape 99 over a 98, etc, just b/c its a 99. I have a 98 and its got plenty of umph.
Late model cherokee (except 00 and 01) all the way.
XXXpedition
Explorer
all good arguments above, although the 1980s might be a bit tougher (and more expensive) to build up
important for XJs is to get the high output engine but with 97s and up you are more than save with that issue
have fun!
important for XJs is to get the high output engine but with 97s and up you are more than save with that issue
have fun!
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
Here's what you need to know about the 00-01 XJs:
1.) Engine has DIS (Distributorless Ignition System). Basically it has a computer controlled coil rail that replaces the distributor and spark plug wires. Replacement is roughly on par with replacing good quality cap, plugs, rotor, coil, etc. I'd suspect over the long haul it could be cheaper ultimately. This system removes the spark plug wires so you don't have to worry about getting them wet. Unplugging the rail from the wiring harness is hard to do the first time, the subsequent times it isn't a big deal once you get the knack of it.
2.) Uses a different casting for the cylinder head (casting number 0331). This head has the bosses to bolting down the DIS rail. The early versions also have a reputation for cracking at around 80-120k miles. They can be replaced with a later casting out of a WJ or TJ. I've heard conflicting things about which ones are ok. I've heard late 2001, late 2002 and 2003 and up. Some google research should clear this up. There is also a few companies that sell fresh replacement 0331 heads ready to go. You can retrofit an older 7120 or 0630 head also but need to fangle up a way to bolt the DIS rail down.
3.) The front axle has a low pinion differential housing. ChryCo did this to clear the pre-cats (see #4 below). If you replace the axle with a high pinion axle you may have clearance issues If you are planning on lifting your Jeep I would not let be deterred by this. The lift will give clearance between the axle and the exhaust if plan to swap in a high pinion replacement axle. You might have to add a little bit of bump stop and/or modify the exhaust a little for clearance. Jury is still out on what I need to do.
4.) The exhaust system has two "pre-cats" built into the bottom of the exhaust manifold. There are replacement headers available for this exhaust manifold. While it sounds scary to have three catalytic converters (versus the normal three) I wouldn't stress about replacement costs. The cats should have a nice long life provided that if you ever have an O2 sensor problem you replace the sensor immediately (over rich mixtures kill cats) or if they don't rust out due to salt.
5.) Other things I've heard are that the wiring is cheaper... I haven't noticed this to be true personally.
I think that's it...
1.) Engine has DIS (Distributorless Ignition System). Basically it has a computer controlled coil rail that replaces the distributor and spark plug wires. Replacement is roughly on par with replacing good quality cap, plugs, rotor, coil, etc. I'd suspect over the long haul it could be cheaper ultimately. This system removes the spark plug wires so you don't have to worry about getting them wet. Unplugging the rail from the wiring harness is hard to do the first time, the subsequent times it isn't a big deal once you get the knack of it.
2.) Uses a different casting for the cylinder head (casting number 0331). This head has the bosses to bolting down the DIS rail. The early versions also have a reputation for cracking at around 80-120k miles. They can be replaced with a later casting out of a WJ or TJ. I've heard conflicting things about which ones are ok. I've heard late 2001, late 2002 and 2003 and up. Some google research should clear this up. There is also a few companies that sell fresh replacement 0331 heads ready to go. You can retrofit an older 7120 or 0630 head also but need to fangle up a way to bolt the DIS rail down.
3.) The front axle has a low pinion differential housing. ChryCo did this to clear the pre-cats (see #4 below). If you replace the axle with a high pinion axle you may have clearance issues If you are planning on lifting your Jeep I would not let be deterred by this. The lift will give clearance between the axle and the exhaust if plan to swap in a high pinion replacement axle. You might have to add a little bit of bump stop and/or modify the exhaust a little for clearance. Jury is still out on what I need to do.
4.) The exhaust system has two "pre-cats" built into the bottom of the exhaust manifold. There are replacement headers available for this exhaust manifold. While it sounds scary to have three catalytic converters (versus the normal three) I wouldn't stress about replacement costs. The cats should have a nice long life provided that if you ever have an O2 sensor problem you replace the sensor immediately (over rich mixtures kill cats) or if they don't rust out due to salt.
5.) Other things I've heard are that the wiring is cheaper... I haven't noticed this to be true personally.
I think that's it...