Will reducing wire size after a long run drop my voltage?

#46
I ran 10ga wire from battery to where my fridge is. I then installed an Anderson Power Products SB50 connector. I cut the ARB wire that goes to the fridge plug and installed another SB50 connector. The weak link in the system I suppose is the ARB wire that is molded into the fridge connector. That said, it must be up to the task if that's the way ARB designed it.
 
#48
I fail to see how an SAE connector, which is basically just 2 bullet connectors, is so superior to a 1/4" spade terminal. They're both just connectors, in fact the spade terminals i intend on using have a locking tab in the center while SAE connectors just rely on friction fit.
A quality SAE connector has a positive snap fit and holds together indefinitely. It is most certainly not the same as a cheap bullet connector from Autozone. The blade connectors do not ever fit really securely and are very prone to loosening and falling apart due to vibration. The design of the connector almost assures that. Furthermore they are prone to corrosion where the rubber surround of the SAE connector prevents it.

At this point, you're going to do what you want, regardless of the advice given that you asked for. Have fun using junk to rig up your electronics. A year from now when you are fighting voltage issues maybe you'll understand.
 
#49
If you want to do it the "right" way use some connectors like this: http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Catalog+Section82021_CPC_sections1-50707pdfEnglishENG_CS_82021_CPC_sections1-5_0707.pdf (see series 5 which can accept 8 gauge wire), or run your 8 gauge to a terminal block, then 10 gauge with a series 3 connector. Difference is $25 connector vs $0.02 blade.

Either way, probably over engineering it for the load, but always a fun exercise. :)
There's a lot of nice connectors out there that i would love to use, but a big part of the install for me is to only mount one box and have all the ports i need. Since i know i want 2 cigarette outlets, the easy solution is to just add a third port that will house the ARB connector. Unfortunately that means i have to connect my 8 gauge wire to 1/4" blade terminals. That beats having to design some sort of custom box system to house my connectors. My whole goal for doing these mods is to make the install look factory.

Bayou Boy, you're absolutely right that i'm going to do what i want with my truck. You gave your advice and it's not what i want to do, so give it up and troll somewhere else.
 
#51
Anderson PowerPole (APP)

PowerWerx makes nice panels, covers etc.
I like that option, even though i'd have to cut the factory plug off. However, the largest connector they say you can run is the 45 amp, which is a 10 gauge terminal. Same issue with the 1/4" blade connector.

The ARB factory cord is pretty cool. It has a screw on adapter to run with a regular cigarette outlet. If you remove the cigarette outlet you have a 2 prong threaded outlet that fits their proprietary mount. So i could keep the adapter in my transit bag and plug into any standard 12v cigarette outlet if i wanted to. If i hack off the original plug, then it's only going to work in a vehicle with that specific adapter.
 

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Tail-End Charlie
#52
You could just use a small fuse block. Put a ring terminal on the #8 to feed the fuse block and use the 1/4" spades to feed the loads.

 
#53
The ARB factory cord is pretty cool. It has a screw on adapter to run with a regular cigarette outlet. If you remove the cigarette outlet you have a 2 prong threaded outlet that fits their proprietary mount. So i could keep the adapter in my transit bag and plug into any standard 12v cigarette outlet if i wanted to. If i hack off the original plug, then it's only going to work in a vehicle with that specific adapter.
Anderson after APP line starting with SB50 they have higher current designs up into hundreds of amps. What do you run higher than 45A?

I never use ciggie ports (dangerous), but an adapter pigtail to whatever is easy to wire as needed, or buy, have made up.

I would not bother with a proprietary connector, standardizing on APP is IMO way to go.
 
#56
I've got an 8 gauge wire. The largest connector that will fit in their 1.25" panelpole fitting is the 45 amp connector. That connector can only handle a 10 gauge wire max. I physically can't fit my wire in the connector.
That's the same issue i'm having with the 1/4" blade connectors, hence why i started this thread.
 
#57
So step the wire gauge down close to the end with a proper butt connector.

As I stated in my first response above.

Or cheat and lose a few strands.

What's the max the fridge demands, 8A? Likely a lot less.
 
#59
Got it all wired up. Used double crimp 10 gauge connectors and trimmed down the 8 gauge wire to fit in them. Then plugged 16 gauge wire into the piggyback terminal to wire up the two cigarette outlets. It works well.

The factory under bed lighting wiring runs into a hole in the bed side, so i just chose to just run the DC panel wires in there as well to keep the hole drilling to a minimum.

Also, I measured 12.75 volts at the AGM battery and exactly 12.75 at the ARB plug. I guess i didn't get any voltage drop that my cheap multi-meter could pick up. I ended up using about 22 feet of the 8 gauge wire.
 

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