Working with a trailer manufacture on "affordable" trailers, need advice.

gunsandgearnetwork

Active member
Like the title says I am starting to work with a trailer manufacture on bringing to market "affordable" Overlanding trailers. I have looked over the past few years at different types and style trailers wanting to buy and always thought they were pretty expensive for what you are getting. After starting discussions with a company that produces trailers they are interested in starting a line of trailers. My goal with them is to bring to market three different styles. A basic box type (M100 style) that is enclosed and has crossbar system to mount an RTT. Second is bigger and more elaborate similar to the Smitty built Scout trailer. The third will be a basic enclosed trailer that is based on a common enclosed utility type trailer but will have features like sliding windows, RV door, roof rack, etc. All trailers will feature off-road wheels and tires, extended tongue, Max Coupler (or something similar) and a few other features.

The goal is to market a quality US Built trailer that is affordable to the common guy. It will not have a ton of features like solar, galleys, braking system, etc. These are all features that people can add in their own time and as budgets allow. Most these type things can be added in a day or a weekend project and it can be the way you want it. I want to have the hard part done for you which is the actual trailer. All trailer will be equipped with the necessary DOT items such as lights, reflectors, etc. We might look at offering two types of suspension axle systems. One is a common trailer axle and the other being the Timbren Axle system.

They plan on selling direct (East cost location) with the possibility of distributers midwest and west coast. The goal is to keep the price down and adding distributors may cause pricing issues so we will see how demand is and decide that at a later date.

So my question is what price point would you like to see these style trailers come in. What seems like a fair price? Anything that would be a "must have" you would like to see on the trailers.

We plan on being very active in social media and forums by doing sponsorships, special deals, group buys, etc.

Any questions, comments, advice, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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CampStewart

Observer
If a leaf spring will be an option then don't use standard trailer springs. Use something longer and common like Wrangler YJ springs. Make the fenders easy to raise and lower so if one swaps in larger tires they can remount the fenders without major surgery. If the fenders will be "jeep style" then make them long enough front to back to accept 37 inch tires. Come up with a stabilizer system that will work for lifted trailers and will have enough range for parking on uneven ground, don't use those standard swing up drop down stabilizers. Design it to be able to use shocks even if they are not offered stock.
 

gunsandgearnetwork

Active member
If a leaf spring will be an option then don't use standard trailer springs. Use something longer and common like Wrangler YJ springs. Make the fenders easy to raise and lower so if one swaps in larger tires they can remount the fenders without major surgery. If the fenders will be "jeep style" then make them long enough front to back to accept 37 inch tires. Come up with a stabilizer system that will work for lifted trailers and will have enough range for parking on uneven ground, don't use those standard swing up drop down stabilizers. Design it to be able to use shocks even if they are not offered stock.

I plan on having the trailer come stock with 33 to 35 tires with the ability to go up to 37. Most likely looking at tub style fenders.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
My preference would be an off road tough not-a-teardrop, no RTT setup needed, rear outside galley.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:tnttt.com+sawtooth+OR+trailtop

I also think going tucked wheels and integrated tongue-space gives greater space rather than tacking boxes on the outside.

If slide-outs for the fridge / chuckbox etc can clear the mattress and be waterproof when opened that would really maximise usable space in a small footprint.
 

EMrider

Explorer
I think that a solidly built and off road capable M100 style box trailer selling for $2k or thereabouts would be a huge seller. I like the no frills idea. Let owners customize at their expense.

Good luck

R
 

gunsandgearnetwork

Active member
I think that a solidly built and off road capable M100 style box trailer selling for $2k or thereabouts would be a huge seller. I like the no frills idea. Let owners customize at their expense.

Good luck

R
I agree, and many folks like the customizing part they just don't have the skills to build the actual trailer. Bolt on adds is easy for most people and allows them to do it with their own ideas and budgets.
 
I would agree. Cross bars should be an extra....added later. not everyone wants an RTT.

I mean a tailgate that drops like a truck does. No crossbar across the top of the tailgate.

Lid should have a nice bulb seal, as should the tailgate, keep the weather out.

As for racks and crossbars etc. I’d make it beefy enough to add them to it easily, but also not as standard equipment.
 

Hueychief

New member
Sounds like the one I put together this winter using space trailers parts. Nothing on his website, but I know he's done about 13 offroad frames so far.
It has a different frame than standard, torsion axle for ground clearance, dropdown tailgate like a pickup, upper lid on gas struts, uprights on top for an RTT or anything you want to put on top, stabilizers in the rear, and a 2" receiver.
30.jpg
 
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Teardropper

Well-known member
The third will be a basic enclosed trailer that is based on a common enclosed utility type trailer but will have features like sliding windows, RV door, roof rack, etc.

1. You have to include a fan.
2. Two side doors.

Side doors on teardrops work great if they are placed next to where your hips lay. But a rear door? That would be an eternal struggle. Think about how you (and your wife) get in and out of a bed. Think about how it would be if you and your spouse had to get in and out of bed on the same side. And throw in a 0-dark-30 pee break.

SB
 

gunsandgearnetwork

Active member
1. You have to include a fan.
2. Two side doors.

Side doors on teardrops work great if they are placed next to where your hips lay. But a rear door? That would be an eternal struggle. Think about how you (and your wife) get in and out of a bed. Think about how it would be if you and your spouse had to get in and out of bed on the same side. And throw in a 0-dark-30 pee break.

SB

Yes, a side door is planned along with sliding side windows. The side door will be an RV style so it will have a window and can be locked and opened from the inside. We will not include fans or any type of electronics other than basic wiring for lights the trailer needs to operate on the highway. We may consider wiring for spot lights on the rear and interior lighting. The idea is to keep cost down and allow people to add these type things as they see fit and need.
 
Yes, a side door is planned along with sliding side windows. The side door will be an RV style so it will have a window and can be locked and opened from the inside. We will not include fans or any type of electronics other than basic wiring for lights the trailer needs to operate on the highway. We may consider wiring for spot lights on the rear and interior lighting. The idea is to keep cost down and allow people to add these type things as they see fit and need.

then in the framing, frame in a 14"x14" hole in the roof, so its easy to locate and have cross members to screw the fan to without having to weld and or paint the trailer. maybe make it so a second door can be added simply in the framing. frame it out, but skin over it. etc
 

gunsandgearnetwork

Active member
then in the framing, frame in a 14"x14" hole in the roof, so its easy to locate and have cross members to screw the fan to without having to weld and or paint the trailer. maybe make it so a second door can be added simply in the framing. frame it out, but skin over it. etc

A roof vent could be done fairly cheap during construction and then the buyer could change it out for a fan if they wanted to.
 
A roof vent could be done fairly cheap during construction and then the buyer could change it out for a fan if they wanted to.

to provide the ultimate in leak proof and keep it as cheap as possible, id say forego the vent and the second door, just make it known that its pre framed to take both. just have to cut the skin/paneling or whatever.
 

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