1988 suburban cummins to be

Im 18 and just sold my chevelle project But now i have my new to me 1988 Suburban 3/4 Ton. This is my 1st Truck. my dad used to have a 1/2 Ton 88 Burban on 35's and I miss that one!

repainted by previous owner! but a perfect carfax!
about 6" of Suspension lift
ORU U-Bolt Reversal Kit
ORD Swaybar bushings and correction/Dissconnect
ORD greaseable HD front Shackles
BFgoodrich Mud terrain TA 35x12.5 and Allied Wheel Components Aluminum Modular 16.5's (discontinued model)
Rancho dual steering stabilizer
350/th400/np208/10bolt/14bolt. stock 3:73 gears
cobra cb
auxillary battery setup with isolator
metal black side window visors
bully steps
voyager trailer brakes
Equus Tach
-LED marker lights


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ENGINE`-LQ9-heads/cam/roller rockers- magnacharger radix supercharger (screams like a whipple cobra!)

TRANSMISSION- built and stalled 4l80E by monster transmissions.

FRAME/Susp/Steer:
-box the frame in places using parts from artmorrisionchassis,
-Steering brace
-steering shaft from borgeson
-X-Over steering using a Dana 60 front end with all the steering goodies and a arb air locker
-14 bolt FF with detrot LSD, firestone load levelers, dual shock bar for the rear.
-ORD 4" Lift Shackle Flip and throw out the blocks with new springs F&R using tough country springs for 6" lift total and HD shocks.
-ORD Body mount bushings
-ORD Transfer Case mounts

ROOF-BUMPERS and LIGHTING:
-custom bumper in the front with recessed lights and winch
-LMC truck Crystal clear headlights with HID Conversion
-LMC truck smoked or black taillights with LED taillight conversion
-tint the side marker lights and taillights?
-MCBlazer Rear bumper with accesories (jerrycan,tiremount ecttectt)
-Recon LED bigrig running lights with courtousy's

EXTERIOR:
-cowl inuction hood
-tint the front windows to match the rest

INTERIOR:
-rebuild seats and install heaters in them
-flashlight holder
-cabelas Deluxe backseat gunrack with detachable case
-custom fold down minitable on drivers side barn door
-lmc carpeted dash mat
-custom a pillar 2 gauge pod
-bigger locking center console
-floor mats
-linex lower door panels (where carpet is)
-insulate door panels/dash/rear doors/headliner/hood with Dynamat
-remove carpet/insulation behind 2nd row seats and put in linex or similar liner with an access panel to the fuel tank.
-Monsoon stereo system (minus headunit)

Nice project! You'll likely have to get new wheels when you go to 38's...there is almost NO selection of tires anymore in 16.5...it sucks.

Cool project!

So you know, I have a 4" lift with 37" tires. It required very a very minimal amount of fender trimming. Not sure why the previous owner decided on a 6" lift with 35s. Let me know if you have any questions about the swap. I might be able to help.

chris-i plan on gettin 17" beadlocks sometime. true hard to find anything except swampers in 16.5

spur- you got a pic of the trimming? my dad had a 88 burban with 4" and 35s but no trimming, i was planning on cutting mine just enough for 37's when i need tires next and i would stick with that and forget the bigger lift and 38s

Look at MAD DOCK Pitbull in 38!
They are sweet tires.
I have the same 16.5 issue with my H1
M

That is a nice looking Burb you have there, very clean and in great shape. I especially like the way you flipped the air cleaner lid. Now thats performance!:luxhello:

chilliwak said:

I especially like the way you flipped the air cleaner lid. Now thats performance!:luxhello:

Click to expand...

********, ha yea getting some nice warm air now. probobly hurts more than it helps but i dont care, im gettin a snorkle.:snorkel:

coreys88burban said:

chris-i plan on gettin 17" beadlocks sometime. true hard to find anything except swampers in 16.5

spur- you got a pic of the trimming? my dad had a 88 burban with 4" and 35s but no trimming, i was planning on cutting mine just enough for 37's when i need tires next and i would stick with that and forget the bigger lift and 38s

Click to expand...

I'll try to get some pics posted up on my build thread. I've got a lot of progress to post and have been slackin' on updating it.

The fender trimming is very minimal, an inch or so. The bigger part is cutting the back side of the wheel well. When the springs compress, it moves the axle backward and if you don't cut the wheel well it will rub a lot, damaging the tire and the body.

The shop that did the work used a forklift to flex the suspension to make sure nothing would rub. We also did a test fit with the snow chains I'll be using to make sure there is enough clearance.

thanks man, yea ive already bent the chrome fender trim on the passanger side. haha.

nice truck.
you may want to go with the Cummins as there is aftermarket support for it (easy swap) and it's about as complicated and a brick. the Duramax is a great engine, but has lots of electrical stuff to deal with. why do you want 38's? that's quite a capable rig already.

yea id love to have a duramax but its not worth it. i was comparing my likes and dislike in them bith and cant get passed that fact that if the **** ever goes down a cummins power truck will last longer than anything else. they have less electros to go wrong (12v 1st gen) and can run on just about anything..or so ive heard. 38's would be my max tire size next time around. but im thinking 37x14.5's or at least som wider 36.5s..the 35" are great but most places i go all i need is about 1/4-1/2" more clearance as i scrape the skid plates sometimes. plus i like the look a lot more too.

Spur said:

Cool project!

So you know, I have a 4" lift with 37" tires. It required very a very minimal amount of fender trimming. Not sure why the previous owner decided on a 6" lift with 35s. Let me know if you have any questions about the swap. I might be able to help.

Click to expand...

yea i have a few ?? on what parts to use. im still researching how its all done. so when i find the answers my ?? will be deleted or ill write next to it in RED what i found out.

QUESTIONS:

1. what size fuel lines did you use? --(stock dodge ram uses 3/8" with 5/16" return??)

2. should a 6.2 burb 40 gallon tank and Sending Unit work?--

3. will a sock dodge ram fuel pump/injection pump and all that work?

4. what radiator and interooler do i need? will stock ram's fit, or a BBC burban??

5. will i need any body lift? if so will ORU's 1" work?

6. why do people say the 10 bolt FRONT END wont work? im not going to race the truck/do 4wd luanches and stock is like 200hp so whats the deal? wouldnt it be fine for a while while i save for a D60?

7. Will i need a custom downpipe? or can i get a aftermarket diownpipe like a diamond eye and just have the rest custom exhaust.

coreys88burban said:

yea i have a few ?? on what parts to use. im still researching how its all done. so when i find the answers my ?? will be deleted or ill write next to it in RED what i found out.

QUESTIONS:

1. what size fuel lines did you use? --(stock dodge ram uses 3/8" with 5/16" return??)

Sounds right, but I'd have to double check

2. should a 6.2 burb 40 gallon tank and Sending Unit work?--

Yep, I'll try to get a part number on the sending unit. It obviously needs to be a diesel unit. Also, don't forget the filler neck needs to be changed. A diesel neck is much wider.

3. will a sock dodge ram fuel pump/injection pump and all that work?

Yes

4. what radiator and interooler do i need? will stock ram's fit, or a BBC burban??

My IC came with my 92 Dodge. Not all old dodges had an intercooler, but mine did. The radiator is an aftermarket aluminum radiator. It had to be modified by a radiator shop to change the angles of the hose fittings. ICs from 2nd gen dodges will work with 1st gen. The trick is just making sure everything fits. It gets pretty tight. If either of them were any thicker, it would be a problem.

5. will i need any body lift? if so will ORU's 1" work?

I bought the 4" Tuff Country lift from ORD. All of the parts were as follows: FUSH kit, 4" tuff country springs, rear shackle flip, front grease shackle, rear 1.5" grease bushing, u-bolts and plates from Sky. Plus for the steering components I got a ported power steering box from PSC (allows for later hydroboost upgrade), crossover steering for the D60 from ORD, weld-on and bolt-on steering braces from ORD.

6. why do people say the 10 bolt FRONT END wont work? im not going to race the truck/do 4wd luanches and stock is like 200hp so whats the deal? wouldnt it be fine for a while while i save for a D60?

It's the weight and the torque. The Cummins weighs a lot more than a 350. If you were just driving around town in 2WD, it would probably be fine. For what we do with our trucks, it's just a matter of time before you blow up a 10 bolt. I think about it this way. I took a 3/4 ton Suburban and turned it into a 1-ton. The axles, steering, suspension, plus all the extra beef is all there to deal with the extra weight and torque of the Cummins. I went through the same thinking in my build. D60s are so expensive and I didn't want to spend the money. After searching for a D60 for months, I finally broke down and bought one from Boyce. It was REALLY expensive, but it's bulletproof and it's a factory ARB install, which is a real plus.

7. Will i need a custom downpipe? or can i get a aftermarket diownpipe like a diamond eye and just have the rest custom exhaust.

Click to expand...

I'll have to get back to you on that. I can't remember what we got. I delegated that to the shop and I told them to get what works. I'll ask them.


When you're getting close to starting on the project, give Scott at TN diesel a call. I ended up ordering a lot of my parts from him. He's a wealth of knowledge about these swaps.

wow, Thanks a bunch man. i learned from my chevell that planning is everything so im getting it all planned and the $$ saved before i really begin...as i dont have another car in the downtime

just ordered some LED clearance lights for the lund visor so i can get it put on, and a ORD Sway bar disconnect