Any interest in 4m50 egr block off plates?

boostin

Adventurer
Going to get a set of egr block off plates made for my 05-07 4m50.

They will be laser cut from 3/8 mild steel. It would be approx 25$ usd.for the pair plus shipping.

Any interest?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
They will be laser cut from 3/8 mild steel.

That's pretty thick.
Be mindful that the pipe that fits between the exhaust manifold and the EGR is not flexible. That thickness of plate will angle the flange surfaces, so when you do up the nuts you will be stressing the welds. Also, there are studs on the exhaust flange that would not allow a plate that thick to be used, unless you replaced the studs. Using bolts at the exhaust flange end would make fitting the pipe much easier, but they use studs on a cast iron exhaust manifold for a reason.
Just saying....
 

boostin

Adventurer
I was thinking to just fully eliminate the pipe, but I have no problem going 1/4".

Or if you want to keep the pipe installed for that factory look I could do a 1/8" plate just on the exhaust manifold side
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
If you eliminate the cross-over pipe then you will probably need another blanking plate for the EGR. That one is a bit of an odd kidney shape.
If using the existing OEM studs in the exhaust manifold then you are pretty much limited to a 1/8" thick blanking plate, unless those studs on your truck are longer than mine.
 

Amesz00

Adventurer
I ended up ditching the crossover pipe and made up a plate for the intake side. Gasket goo to seal it up. 3mm mild steel both sides. Steve, EGR pumps sooty exhaust through a heat exchanger (fed by the radiator, so extra heat load) into the intake. It's bad for everything, the only thing it does is reduce NOx emissions. But more fuel consumption, dirty intake and valves etc, higher egt's, less power and the necessity of having huge turbo drive pressures in order to pump exhaust against the intake boost.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
If you do this you need to fabricate 3 parts - 2 blanking plates and a mounting plate.

If you pull everything off you need to use 1/4" or so to avoid warping and get a good seal.





 

javajoe79

Fabricator
A common method I have seen for EGR delete on some other engines is to simply weld shut the inside of the EGR pipe. This also tends to not upset the computer because you leave the EGR valve in place and operational, it just doesn't flow any exhaust. Not sure if the engine in question uses an electronic valve or not.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
A common method I have seen for EGR delete on some other engines is to simply weld shut the inside of the EGR pipe. This also tends to not upset the computer because you leave the EGR valve in place and operational, it just doesn't flow any exhaust. Not sure if the engine in question uses an electronic valve or not.

The EGR valve is electronic, with a position sensor on the shaft. In order to not get an error the EGR valve has to remain connected to the engine management system (electronically, not physically)
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I might add...
On some vehicles the sensors also measure exhaust gas flow, so simply blocking the path to the EGR can be problematic.
Luckily, that is not the case with the 4M50 Fuso engine.
 

steve4wdaus

4WDaus "tralia"
I ended up ditching the crossover pipe and made up a plate for the intake side. Gasket goo to seal it up. 3mm mild steel both sides. Steve, EGR pumps sooty exhaust through a heat exchanger (fed by the radiator, so extra heat load) into the intake. It's bad for everything, the only thing it does is reduce NOx emissions. But more fuel consumption, dirty intake and valves etc, higher egt's, less power and the necessity of having huge turbo drive pressures in order to pump exhaust against the intake boost.
So doesn't affect the exhaust brake? Is the mod the same for a 4D34 as 4M50? It reduces fuel consumption as well and increases power? Sounds a great mod.
 
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pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
So doesn't affect the exhaust brake? Is the mod the same for a 4D34 as 4M50? It reduces fuel consumption as well and increases power? Sounds a great mod.

Doesn't interfere with the exhaust brake. I haven't noticed any change to fuel consumption, but it does seem to help with the engine temperature under load (or at least I imagine it does, what with confirmation bias and all that).

I like it because it pulls a bunch of junk off of the motor that isn't truly necessary but is expensive to replace.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
So doesn't affect the exhaust brake?
No, not at all.

Is the mod the same for a 4D34 as 4M50?
Does the 4D34 have an EGR? I thought EGRs were only on Euro4 engines onwards.

It reduces fuel consumption as well and increases power? Sounds a great mod.
What's more important (to me) is that it is not putting heated air or contaminates into the intake manifold. Those contaminates build up in the intake manifold and can, in time, block air flow significantly. Google "blocked EGR".
Also, the main purpose of an intercooler is to cool down the intake air, making it more dense. The EGR system does its best to negate that functionality. In my opinion, the person that designed the EGR system should be slapped by the side of the head!
Theoretically, there should be more horsepower, but I did not do a before and after with this mod, so I cannot verify that.
 

jhrodd

Adventurer
If you do this you need to fabricate 3 parts - 2 blanking plates and a mounting plate.

If you pull everything off you need to use 1/4" or so to avoid warping and get a good seal.






Jon, Is that control head mounting block necessary to remove the EGR system?
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Jon, Is that control head mounting block necessary to remove the EGR system?

Not truly necessary, but you do need something to mount the control head to. This seemed a more elegant solution than a bunch of zip ties.
 

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